leave the drain nut for now. The idea is to get engine running as smooth as possible, what i do is this:
Turn idle screw to extreme left (just when engine starts to rumble), now start turning to extreme right (just before engine starts to rumble) while counting the number for moves you made with fingers. E.g in my car, it takes 8 moves of fingers to move from one extreme to other.
Now turn screw back to left for 4 moves. This is the middle position, note that right now this is just estimate (since its the mean position) Once you are at middle position of screw, you gotta fine tune the idle.
Procedure to fine tune is again estimation and feeling the engine sound. You can feel it easily since your shoulder is touched to the fender and try to do it in a quite place. Move screw one finger move to right, then try giving race with pedal, turn on and off the ac etc and see how it perfoms.
If its not good, then put screw back in middle position and turn one finger move to the left and observe. You to repeat this procedure until you find the best spot which works for you. You may have to use 2 or even more turns to see where your kit's best ratio position lies
Also generally, main t-bolt is adjusted first, then idle is adjusted. Logic for adjusting t-bolt is same but this time ask some one to keep a steady race of 3k rpm. Now you start adjusting and you will feel for yourself which place gives best smooth running and high rpm. Once you have found the position which is giving smooth running with pedal fixed at one rpm, move the screw about half circle (half turn) to the right (tighten it a bit from best position)
If all else fails, then get checked your emulator advancer and like i said wiring since old wiring can drop signals. Simply go to cng mechanic and ask him to unplug the cng connectors, give them a blow to and put it back in. (this worked in my case)