Maintaining UPS/car batteries

[mfdarvesh]

Loose, corroded terminals always creates problems just like you quoted. You should have an AMP-METER and test the current flowing through the batteries and also while they are being charged. This is the best method to verify if terminals are connected properly or not. If contact point between battery terminals and UPS positive or negative wire is compromised then terminals tend to heat up, batteries won’t get its share of charging and in return won’t be able to handle the load. This was one major issue, I used to face in start once I had four batteries connected with the UPS system, it was very late I realized that entire load was being shared by one set whereas another set was not conducting at all due to bad contact points. Always buy new terminals, cut the wires from end to create new contact points. Corrosion on terminals happens more frequently on old batteries.
Dont put oil on battery terminals, i never did it and i dont think its useful.

Thank you
I have checked the batter with multi-meter. It shows 12.1 volts while electricity was off and at charging it was showing 13.3 and 13.65-13.7, while the UPS shows the battery as fully charged.

Now how can I check the current with that multi-meter.

[NakedTruth]

A fully charged battery SHOULDN'T show 12.1V.

[talhawaleed]

Thank you
I have checked the batter with multi-meter. It shows 12.1 volts while electricity was off and at charging it was showing 13.3 and 13.65-13.7, while the UPS shows the battery as fully charged.

Now how can I check the current with that multi-meter.

Put AMP-Meter on it and connect Voltmeter on battery terminals. start putting load on your batteries and observe the Voltage across battery terminals and amount of current passing through it. if connections are bad then voltage will remain above 11 Volts whereas current will be restricted to some number before every thing will trip off.

if you don't have the equipment, then buy new terminals and carefully make new contacts and make sure that they are tight.

[talhawaleed]

sorry, editing this post.

[talhawaleed]

You did not show us the condition of battery caps from underneath. This maybe possibly because of overcharging. Find the charging rate and observe the cutoff Voltage and report the results here. Also test the gravity using hydrometer for all the cells.

Will anybody help me rectifying the problem that what happened to my first battery.

Both batteries are 1 month old and the first battery terminal is also black.

2nd one is OK no problem.

Volta 140AH.

Please tell me should i go for warranty claiming or it is OK.

1st Battery dont know what happened to plates but they are losing their shape.

2nd one is OK as look at the plates.

[mac148]

Assalamo allaikum
I have been reading this thread for quite some time... Learnt alot from whole 46 pages. I just want to share my setup with you people which i have done after reading and fully understanding the concepts given in this thread. I hope that my 6 months old batteries have couple of more years left in them

Details of my setup are shown in the pictures too.
Pictures 1 to 7 are with my both multimeters and digital panel
voltmeter attached.

The big meter on ups is detecting the voltage drop on the shunt placed
over battery. Voltage showing is in millivolts (06.9mV). As the
resistance of the shunt is 0.0006 ohm (60mV drop for 100 AMP current)
current drawn at the time of picture taken was 11.5 AMP (calculated by
dividing (0.0069(v) / 0.0006 (R))
I have done this arrangement to know that at any given time UPS should
not give battery more than 15 AMPS as that will damage the battery
very quickly. Using this method to avoid the costly DC Amp Meter. For this setup i just had to buy the shunt from owais electronics Hall road in Rs. 600.

The clamp meter is just for the analysis of local electricians claim.
Seems like their approach is ok with quite big margin of error. My
clamp meter can detect AC current and it is showing 16.26 AMP which is
quite high and wrong as compared to 11.5 AMP. (By the way mere
knowledge of this thing k i am measuring wrong Amperes for last 4
years made me do all this exercise )

Lastly on the battery is placed digital panel voltmeter which is
connected all the time to the two terminals of the battery. It shows
how much voltage the battery is giving at any given time. This is the
most important and practical thing for analyzing day to day use of
ups. It is showing 13.1 Volts which for my battery is still charging.
when it will hit 14 Volts, my ups will stop charging the battery and
the battery will be fully charged. I can further verify this by
checking the specific gravity of electrolyte in each of the 6 cells of
the battery by using hydrometer which you can see also placed on the
wooden chawki. The specific gravity of electrolyte for my fully charged
battery is usually between 1.250-1.270.

When the light goes and ups start draining the battery, digital panel
voltmeter starts showing the voltage drop. when it reaches 11 Volts,
my battery usually has specific gravity of 1.170 to 1.190 this usually happens after fully
charged battery in 2 hours on a load of 2 fans and 2 energy savers.
ups cuts off the power when the battery voltage drops
to 8 volts which usually happens in 3.5 to 4 hours on the same load. this totally discharges the battery and specific gravity of
electrolyte falls below 1.100. this is deep cycle discharge which is
harmful for long term life of the battery as UPS should stop
discharging the battery when the voltage drops to 10 Volts but that in
this type of load shedding will reach very shortly. This is the only
variable which I can't control at the moment cuz Ghanta offer main phir
ups ka maqsad he faut ho jaye ga.
I am open for any further suggestions to better my setup.

[talhawaleed]

Assalamo allaikum
I have been reading this thread for quite some time... Learnt alot from whole 46 pages. I just want to share my setup with you people which i have done after reading and fully understanding the concepts given in this thread. I hope that my 6 months old batteries have couple of more years left in them

Details of my setup are shown in the pictures too.
Pictures 1 to 7 are with my both multimeters and digital panel
voltmeter attached.

The big meter on ups is detecting the voltage drop on the shunt placed
over battery. Voltage showing is in millivolts (06.9mV). As the
resistance of the shunt is 0.0006 ohm (60mV drop for 100 AMP current)
current drawn at the time of picture taken was 11.5 AMP (calculated by
dividing (0.0069(v) / 0.0006 (R))
I have done this arrangement to know that at any given time UPS should
not give battery more than 15 AMPS as that will damage the battery
very quickly. Using this method to avoid the costly DC Amp Meter. For this setup i just had to buy the shunt from owais electronics Hall road in Rs. 600.

The clamp meter is just for the analysis of local electricians claim.
Seems like their approach is ok with quite big margin of error. My
clamp meter can detect AC current and it is showing 16.26 AMP which is
quite high and wrong as compared to 11.5 AMP. (By the way mere
knowledge of this thing k i am measuring wrong Amperes for last 4
years made me do all this exercise )

Lastly on the battery is placed digital panel voltmeter which is
connected all the time to the two terminals of the battery. It shows
how much voltage the battery is giving at any given time. This is the
most important and practical thing for analyzing day to day use of
ups. It is showing 13.1 Volts which for my battery is still charging.
when it will hit 14 Volts, my ups will stop charging the battery and
the battery will be fully charged. I can further verify this by
checking the specific gravity of electrolyte in each of the 6 cells of
the battery by using hydrometer which you can see also placed on the
wooden chawki. The specific gravity of electrolyte for my fully charged
battery is usually between 1.250-1.270.

When the light goes and ups start draining the battery, digital panel
voltmeter starts showing the voltage drop. when it reaches 11 Volts,
my battery usually has specific gravity of 1.170 to 1.190 this usually happens after fully
charged battery in 2 hours on a load of 2 fans and 2 energy savers.
ups cuts off the power when the battery voltage drops
to 8 volts which usually happens in 3.5 to 4 hours on the same load. this totally discharges the battery and specific gravity of
electrolyte falls below 1.100. this is deep cycle discharge which is
harmful for long term life of the battery as UPS should stop
discharging the battery when the voltage drops to 10 Volts but that in
this type of load shedding will reach very shortly. This is the only
variable which I can't control at the moment cuz Ghanta offer main phir
ups ka maqsad he faut ho jaye ga.
I am open for any further suggestions to better my setup.

DC Voltmeter is a very good idea, I had this in mind but somehow was lazy to spend extra and thought it would only be useful if I install it outside along with Wall mount Voltmeter and is very much possible. Anyway, today I was out on shopping at College Road and bought an AMP-Meter which I would be installing it along with Wall mount Voltmeter. Digital Panel for a UPS should include AC Wall mount Voltmeter, DC Wall mount Voltmeter and Wall mount AC AMP-METER and should be installed in main Living Room so that you may have you eyes on it for all the times with ease.

You can easily control the cutoff to 10 Volts and if batteries be prepared with good electrolyte and you are not putting out of Earth load on batteries then I think these batteries can easily do three hours and run for minimum three years.

Output Voltage with batteries fully charged should be tuned to 250 Volts so that once batteries discharges so output Voltages remains above 210 Volts. your computers, wireless routers and TV will be safe then.

AC Wall mount Voltmeter along with DC Wall mount Voltmeter will be a very good combination and will provide the status of UPS and batteries on FLY.

Did not exactly understood the shunt thing but it?s good to hear that you have benefited from this thread and very fruitful effort made where your family will benefit the most from your knowledge.

Attached are the few pictures of digital panel meters I have bought today.

Prices of above items were

AC Panel meter: Rs 350 each

AC AMP-METER : Rs 450.

[NakedTruth]

I bought the AC panel meter for 180Rs. and DC panel meter for 250Rs.

BTW, it's a good idea to calibrate both using your multimeter. My AC meter was off by ~8 volt and DC was by 1.

@ the guy discharging his batteries to 8 volts. Hats off to you!. lol

[mac148]

Thank you for the suggestions Talha. I have seen these digital panel voltmeters here in lahore too... these are really good to fine tune and calibrate ones batteries as there are minor changes in the internal chemistry of the battery with time. I got my digital panel dc voltmeter for Rs. 225.

I just want to know how this AC AMP meter (Not DC) will help you in calibrating your ups batteries?

Also what do you think, what should be the specific gravity of electrolyte when the ups cuts off at 10 Volts.?

At the moment my UPS is calibrated accordingly i.e. AC Output of Fully charged batteries from Ups is 260 Volts.

UPS Stops charging at 14 Volts. Specific gravity of electrolyte in all cells remains same and is between 1.250 - 1.270 in fully charged state. No overheating of the battery as its is always being charged at less than 13 AMPs.

Only setting not tuned is UPS cutting off value when discharging which I have set to 8 volts. My battery touches this mark only when we have load shedding for more than two hours. I usually prevent this by turning on generator after 1.5-2 hours of load shedding but its not always possible when i am not at home and we have load shedding for prolonged hours. By the way I am planning to set it back to 10 Volts when load shedding improves and i have flushed the battery.

Load on my UPS is just one fan and one energy saver in every room. No sensitive equipment attached. We don't use more than 2 rooms at the same time so load rarely exceeds two fans and 2 energy savers.

As far as the Shunt is Concerned, this when placed in series with the battery helps to accurately measure the DC Current flowing through the circuit by checking the voltage drop across the shunt. This is a very cost effective way to measure high ampere dc current. All the digital panel DC Amp meters meant for high current work on the same principal by having a shunt of bigger capacity. You can read the principle and working from here

What is a Shunt - Electric Circuit

DC Voltmeter is a very good idea, I had this in mind but somehow was lazy to spend extra and thought it would only be useful if I install it outside along with Wall mount Voltmeter and is very much possible. Anyway, today I was out on shopping at College Road and bought an AMP-Meter which I would be installing it along with Wall mount Voltmeter. Digital Panel for a UPS should include AC Wall mount Voltmeter, DC Wall mount Voltmeter and Wall mount AC AMP-METER and should be installed in main Living Room so that you may have you eyes on it for all the times with ease.

You can easily control the cutoff to 10 Volts and if batteries be prepared with good electrolyte and you are not putting out of Earth load on batteries then I think these batteries can easily do three hours and run for minimum three years.

Output Voltage with batteries fully charged should be tuned to 250 Volts so that once batteries discharges so output Voltages remains above 210 Volts. your computers, wireless routers and TV will be safe then.

AC Wall mount Voltmeter along with DC Wall mount Voltmeter will be a very good combination and will provide the status of UPS and batteries on FLY.

Did not exactly understood the shunt thing but it?s good to hear that you have benefited from this thread and very fruitful effort made where your family will benefit the most from your knowledge.

Attached are the few pictures of digital panel meters I have bought today.

Prices of above items were

AC Panel meter: Rs 350 each

AC AMP-METER : Rs 450.

[talhawaleed]

Digital Panel Meters are good to keep an eye on UPS system on FLY whereas Calibration and settings should always be done with Digital Multimeters specifically made for this purpose.

You need DC clamp meter in-order to determine the charging rate of your UPS system and further Adjusting it. AC Clamp Meter is not very helpful as far as UPS systems are concerned. Determine the AMP-HR ratings and divide it by 10 as that should be your maximum charging rate. I guess, you have already designed a small DC-AMP meter for measuring the charging rate and if it’s accurate then it’s good enough. I remember, once I went to college Road to buy a clamp meter, I specifically remember that few of them were available with AC option only whereas I paid little extra and bought the one which has an option to measure AC and DC currents both.

Your AC output Voltage is perfectly fine on 260 Volts whereas my advice is that you set the lower cutoff to 10.3 Volts, buy another battery of same capacity and connect it in parallel with this system. This way, you backup time will increase and you won’t be damaging the batteries.

Last of all, you live in Lahore where Pryochemicals sells electrolyte specifically made for batteries. Do yourself a favor, buy that electrolyte, flush this battery with plain water for 3-4 times and add this new electrolyte in it.

Thank you for the suggestions Talha. I have seen these digital panel voltmeters here in lahore too... these are really good to fine tune and calibrate ones batteries as there are minor changes in the internal chemistry of the battery with time. I got my digital panel dc voltmeter for Rs. 225.

I just want to know how this AC AMP meter (Not DC) will help you in calibrating your ups batteries?

Also what do you think, what should be the specific gravity of electrolyte when the ups cuts off at 10 Volts.?

At the moment my UPS is calibrated accordingly i.e. AC Output of Fully charged batteries from Ups is 260 Volts.

UPS Stops charging at 14 Volts. Specific gravity of electrolyte in all cells remains same and is between 1.250 - 1.270 in fully charged state. No overheating of the battery as its is always being charged at less than 13 AMPs.

Only setting not tuned is UPS cutting off value when discharging which I have set to 8 volts. My battery touches this mark only when we have load shedding for more than two hours. I usually prevent this by turning on generator after 1.5-2 hours of load shedding but its not always possible when i am not at home and we have load shedding for prolonged hours. By the way I am planning to set it back to 10 Volts when load shedding improves and i have flushed the battery.

Load on my UPS is just one fan and one energy saver in every room. No sensitive equipment attached. We don't use more than 2 rooms at the same time so load rarely exceeds two fans and 2 energy savers.

As far as the Shunt is Concerned, this when placed in series with the battery helps to accurately measure the DC Current flowing through the circuit by checking the voltage drop across the shunt. This is a very cost effective way to measure high ampere dc current. All the digital panel DC Amp meters meant for high current work on the same principal by having a shunt of bigger capacity. You can read the principle and working from here

What is a Shunt - Electric Circuit

[mac148]

I am going to purchase electrolyte in coming month inshallah. Will do flush then.will also raise the cut off value to 10 Volts. What about my other two questions?

1. What's the use of AC Amp meter in your setup?

2. what should be the specific gravity of electrolyte when the ups cuts off at 10 volts?

Digital Panel Meters are good to keep an eye on UPS system on FLY whereas Calibration and settings should always be done with Digital Multimeters specifically made for this purpose.

You need DC clamp meter in-order to determine the charging rate of your UPS system and further Adjusting it. AC Clamp Meter is not very helpful as far as UPS systems are concerned. Determine the AMP-HR ratings and divide it by 10 as that should be your maximum charging rate. I guess, you have already designed a small DC-AMP meter for measuring the charging rate and if it’s accurate then it’s good enough. I remember, once I went to college Road to buy a clamp meter, I specifically remember that few of them were available with AC option only whereas I paid little extra and bought the one which has an option to measure AC and DC currents both.

Your AC output Voltage is perfectly fine on 260 Volts whereas my advice is that you set the lower cutoff to 10.3 Volts, buy another battery of same capacity and connect it in parallel with this system. This way, you backup time will increase and you won’t be damaging the batteries.

Last of all, you live in Lahore where Pryochemicals sells electrolyte specifically made for batteries. Do yourself a favor, buy that electrolyte, flush this battery with plain water for 3-4 times and add this new electrolyte in it.

[talhawaleed]

I am going to purchase electrolyte in coming month inshallah. Will do flush then.will also raise the cut off value to 10 Volts. What about my other two questions?

1. What's the use of AC Amp meter in your setup?

2. what should be the specific gravity of electrolyte when the ups cuts off at 10 volts?

1. AC clamp meter: not much of the use, the one you see in previous images has an option to measure AC and DC currents both. Mostly in UPS systems, we need DC option as we want to verify the charging rates and at times the load.
2. There is no hard and fast rule, it all depends upon your C.G once batteries are fully charged. If C.G has been set to 1.250 then it may drop to 1.15 or at times to 1.1 once discharged or to 1.03 Volts. I don’t remember, but I read it somewhere where the guy exactly gave the rough calculation regarding drop in C.G with discharging.

Rough explanation of C.G from my side (you can add, correct and improve the explanation)

2a) C.G behaves very differently such as once load shedding’s are very frequent such as batteries are not getting ample time to charge and then one day you let it charge to its maximum capacity even then C.G will show you bad results.
2b) it takes repeated cycles of charging and discharging to show good C.G
2c) this is because Acid is heavy so tends to sits in bottom whereas water is light so goes on top. We need good mixing to show a right C.G and which happens mostly once batteries gets more frequent chances to charge fully after load shedding.
2d) C.G is mostly used to determine the health of battery such as if all the cells have same C.G then battery is in good health. Once battery is fully charged then C.G should be between 1.25 to 1.275 and that is adjusted in start and is an indication of quantity of sulfuric acid in water and we need it in certain limit in-order to be sure that neither we have more nor less acid in water.
2e) C.G is one of the many factors we take into account once we are diagnosing an issue with UPS or car batteries. If C.G is not good, then we cannot give our final verdict before checking for other variables and factors. E.g Bad C.G might be a temporary issue which may become ok if we can deal with the cause. Difference in C.G between different cell definitely point fingers at bad cell.
2f) C.G drops with discharging and comes up with charging.

[mac148]

Thankyou talha for sharing your quite informative and helpful points regarding Specific gravity of batteries.
I have been observing more or less same things you mentioned in this post.

For me, the most important information which we can drive from specific gravity is whether any cell is going bad if it has some bizzare value not inline with other cells.

rest ups over charging or undercharging be best diagnosed with the help of Voltage and dc current and whether batteries are heating up or not.

With the help of information in this thread i am quite confident that i am not gonna change my current battery in coming year.

1. AC clamp meter: not much of the use, the one you see in previous images has an option to measure AC and DC currents both. Mostly in UPS systems, we need DC option as we want to verify the charging rates and at times the load.
2. There is no hard and fast rule, it all depends upon your C.G once batteries are fully charged. If C.G has been set to 1.250 then it may drop to 1.15 or at times to 1.1 once discharged or to 1.03 Volts. I don’t remember, but I read it somewhere where the guy exactly gave the rough calculation regarding drop in C.G with discharging.

Rough explanation of C.G from my side (you can add, correct and improve the explanation)

2a) C.G behaves very differently such as once load shedding’s are very frequent such as batteries are not getting ample time to charge and then one day you let it charge to its maximum capacity even then C.G will show you bad results.
2b) it takes repeated cycles of charging and discharging to show good C.G
2c) this is because Acid is heavy so tends to sits in bottom whereas water is light so goes on top. We need good mixing to show a right C.G and which happens mostly once batteries gets more frequent chances to charge fully after load shedding.
2d) C.G is mostly used to determine the health of battery such as if all the cells have same C.G then battery is in good health. Once battery is fully charged then C.G should be between 1.25 to 1.275 and that is adjusted in start and is an indication of quantity of sulfuric acid in water and we need it in certain limit in-order to be sure that neither we have more nor less acid in water.
2e) C.G is one of the many factors we take into account once we are diagnosing an issue with UPS or car batteries. If C.G is not good, then we cannot give our final verdict before checking for other variables and factors. E.g Bad C.G might be a temporary issue which may become ok if we can deal with the cause. Difference in C.G between different cell definitely point fingers at bad cell.
2f) C.G drops with discharging and comes up with charging.

[Automotorsport_Lover]

Hi all,

Nice useful thread but a little too detailed for a newbie like me! Lol...
So this season I was looking for upgrading my UPS to a 24volts one, previously I had 1000VA/750Watts Local made UPS... Now my electrician has given me rate of 14,000Rs for New 24volt desi UPS, and same is the price of Homage and Cyberpower UPSes...
Plz note that i have also got new AGS GL85 batteries x 2. (15 plates/85 amps each as per my electrician's recommendation) Now plz guide me is Homage or Cyber power UPSes more good or local ones?

Ppl using Homage seems satidfied?

My electrician seems to be ripping me off by purchasing my totally fine working old UPS and Exide 165amp old battery in just 7,000Rs combined? Is this rate fine??

Hes asking me 4,500Rs more (+ my old setup) for the desi made UPS by him and seems not happy when I talk I wonna buy Homage or Cyberpower UPS and he should pay me in cash. What u guys says? Which UPS is more better in our country? Desi stuff good? Or branded?

Im interested in this, looking for quick replys as I wonna finalize the deal asap.

[HellsGuardian]

Hi all,

Nice useful thread but a little too detailed for a newbie like me! Lol...
So this season I was looking for upgrading my UPS to a 24volts one, previously I had 1000VA/750Watts Local made UPS... Now my electrician has given me rate of 14,000Rs for New 24volt desi UPS, and same is the price of Homage and Cyberpower UPSes...
Plz note that i have also got new AGS GL85 batteries x 2. (15 plates/85 amps each as per my electrician's recommendation) Now plz guide me is Homage or Cyber power UPSes more good or local ones?

Ppl using Homage seems satidfied?

My electrician seems to be ripping me off by purchasing my totally fine working old UPS and Exide 165amp old battery in just 7,000Rs combined? Is this rate fine??

Hes asking me 4,500Rs more (+ my old setup) for the desi made UPS by him and seems not happy when I talk I wonna buy Homage or Cyberpower UPS and he should pay me in cash. What u guys says? Which UPS is more better in our country? Desi stuff good? Or branded?

Im interested in this, looking for quick replys as I wonna finalize the deal asap.

Last year a shopkeeper bought my one year used osaka IT750 for 5k. I think he is ripping you off since 7k for UPS+batt is too low, why dont you go out and see the market for yourself? even if you wanna buy a new UPS, buy it from a good shop. These electricians sell repaired ups and say that its new.

[Automotorsport_Lover]

^^ Hmmm... Thanks. Anybody else who could guide me?

[talhawaleed]

^^ Hmmm... Thanks. Anybody else who could guide me?

Electricity is mostly an issue with third world countries therefore the branded foreign UPS are normally meant for data houses. They work fine but I don’t think they have an capacity to control charging rates as that variable is fixed by manufacturer. Normally cutoff is controlled in branded UPS system but problem comes once you want to attach batteries of higher capacity with UPS systems. You need to check sorts of batteries which can be connected with branded system, AMP-HR ratings recommended on manufacturer manual. These UPS are not meant to last for hours as it only provides you with Ample time to turn off your computers safely.

Load shedding here is very frequent here, sometimes after an hour for two to three hours in stretch. Charging Rates can be very well controlled on DESI UPS systems and adjusted in accordance to your choice of batteries.

Most preferred batteries are liquid deep cycle high AMP-HR batteries but they are not available in Pakistan and can only be imported directly from china. Even Homeage UPS does not have an option to control the charging rates and many users on this thread are facing similar issues.

Controlling charging rate is important so that you can fine tune your UPS system so that it charges its self quickly and in accordance to your batteries AMP-HR ratings so that your batteries be prepared for next cycle of load sheddings. Otherwise in longer run, batteries wont be charged and would die quickly because of remaining in discharged state for longer time and electricity wont be available once you want it. Local UPS systems have an Option to Control charging rate.

P.S: don’t buy old batteries, go for brand new.

[Automotorsport_Lover]

Electricity is mostly an issue with third world countries therefore the branded foreign UPS are normally meant for data houses. They work fine but I don’t think they have an capacity to control charging rates as that variable is fixed by manufacturer. Normally cutoff is controlled in branded UPS system but problem comes once you want to attach batteries of higher capacity with UPS systems. You need to check sorts of batteries which can be connected with branded system, AMP-HR ratings recommended on manufacturer manual. These UPS are not meant to last for hours as it only provides you with Ample time to turn off your computers safely.

Load shedding here is very frequent here, sometimes after an hour for two to three hours in stretch. Charging Rates can be very well controlled on DESI UPS systems and adjusted in accordance to your choice of batteries.

Most preferred batteries are liquid deep cycle high AMP-HR batteries but they are not available in Pakistan and can only be imported directly from china. Even Homeage UPS does not have an option to control the charging rates and many users on this thread are facing similar issues.

Controlling charging rate is important so that you can fine tune your UPS system so that it charges its self quickly and in accordance to your batteries AMP-HR ratings so that your batteries be prepared for next cycle of load sheddings. Otherwise in longer run, batteries wont be charged and would die quickly because of remaining in discharged state for longer time and electricity wont be available once you want it. Local UPS systems have an Option to Control charging rate.

P.S: don’t buy old batteries, go for brand new.

Yes i understand issues mentioned by you, but then again.. My cousin is using Homage UPS with Osaka 150 Amp batteries x 2. from past 1 year, he has got upto 6 hrs back up from his ups and it never fully discharged. He has just 2 rooms on ups...
Charging rate I guess is fine tuned by the company, its set for optimum battery life nd back up. It usually trips within 1Hr-1.5 Hrs after 1 hour loadshedding..

Local UPSes can charge batteries quickly but then again they exhaust their backup within 9-10months and by the last 2 months, the batteries would start troubling with backup... aggitated one has to change the batteries after 1 yr. I guess that is why these companies have purposefully kept charging time medium, not too slow, neither too fast.

These branded UPSes are China made, local assembled, tweaked for local environment, Homage and Cyber Power... I am not talking ebt any pure imported stuff. Its assembled here. The license to make these have been bought by some local guys.... so the UPS is already tweaked as per our country situation. I think??? Correct me if im wrong.

As per my info, most of the companies/ offices are now using these china UPSes like Homage etc.... they are doing fine.

With Cyber Power I'd get 2000VA, 24Volt, 1350Watts, Over charge protection, no need of stablizer, wapda volt meter, battery charge level and much more info builtin on the LCD. + 1 year warranty in same price i.e. 14,000Rs then why not buy branded? why buy local in 14Ks w/o any proper warranty?

[talhawaleed]

Yes i understand issues mentioned by you, but then again.. My cousin is using Homage UPS with Osaka 150 Amp batteries x 2. from past 1 year, he has got upto 6 hrs back up from his ups and it never fully discharged. He has just 2 rooms on ups...
Charging rate I guess is fine tuned by the company, its set for optimum battery life nd back up. It usually trips within 1Hr-1.5 Hrs after 1 hour loadshedding..

Local UPSes can charge batteries quickly but then again they exhaust their backup within 9-10months and by the last 2 months, the batteries would start troubling with backup... aggitated one has to change the batteries after 1 yr. I guess that is why these companies have purposefully kept charging time medium, not too slow, neither too fast.

These branded UPSes are China made, local assembled, tweaked for local environment, Homage and Cyber Power... I am not talking ebt any pure imported stuff. Its assembled here. The license to make these have been bought by some local guys.... so the UPS is already tweaked as per our country situation. I think??? Correct me if im wrong.

As per my info, most of the companies/ offices are now using these china UPSes like Homage etc.... they are doing fine.

With Cyber Power I'd get 2000VA, 24Volt, 1350Watts, Over charge protection, no need of stablizer, wapda volt meter, battery charge level and much more info builtin on the LCD. + 1 year warranty in same price i.e. 14,000Rs then why not buy branded? why buy local in 14Ks w/o any proper warranty?

Whenever it comes to buying and selling then it?s a choice which an individual has to make based on his own judgment. If you feel satisfied with branded UPS system then go for it, but anyhow this thread highlights few issues and help users to correct the problems. Normally cutoff Voltage, Charging Rate, Battery?s AMP-HR ratings, maximum output Voltage, Low cutoff Voltages, problems with Lead Acid batteries and why do they not last longer are discussed here.

I am ok with Desi UPS because if transformer fails then I can easily get it replaced without replacing the entire UPS; I can replace the UPS cards, Inverters etc plus know how to control all the variables on these local UPS systems.

Batteries fails because of two factors, one is UPS factor and second is electrolyte factor in batteries. If both factors are taken care of then these batteries can easily last for three years and if it does not lasts then its a problem with a human factor because of his not having a proper knowledge on subject matter.

You can buy branded UPS systems but make sure that you read the manufacturer manual, find out if it provides an external control over few variables and if not the strictly attach the batteries in terms of AMP-HR ratings as recommended by the manufacturer and last of all, read its charging rate so that you know roughly how long it will take to recharge the batteries.

[mfdarvesh]

Talha Bahi, which UPS you recommended which may not reduce the speed of fan and also fan may make noise ???