Nissan B14 2.0D

[Xulfiqar]

[QUOTE=Xulfiqar;3891606]Thanks...

But all my life people have told me Im a terrible teacher..

U r right , because of ur rude behavier
which is making u alone in ur life........................

nopes Im not alone, infact at any given time I am surrounded by people who care about me or who I care about.

[Xulfiqar]

i have a 1983 Honda Accord. currently running on its orignal petrol engine it was imported with.
runs great and i actually have no issues with it..i installed a CNG kit like 4 years back nd have been running on CNG ever since...but now CNG is almost impossible to get here in pak and petrol is too costly..my car give 11km/ltr on petrol and about 80kms on CNG in full tank.

im thinking about replacing the engine with a diesel one. what do u suggest ? which shud be suitable ?

thnx
Arsalan

sticking a nissan diesel or any other diesel in your accord will end in tears, the frame is not designed for the engine and remaking stuff just to get it to fit will take reliability out of the window. If you are pestered with CNG queues and want to switch to diesel then get a car which comes as factory diesel.

[sarsalan]

sticking a nissan diesel or any other diesel in your accord will end in tears, the frame is not designed for the engine and remaking stuff just to get it to fit will take reliability out of the window. If you are pestered with CNG queues and want to switch to diesel then get a car which comes as factory diesel.

@xulfiqar
thanx for suggestion mate...acan u plz get on my post ?
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/engine-accessories/217515-need-help-gurus-about-engine-swaping
sumthng went really bad...

[Dani80pk]

check the glow plugs. - Your engine is fine as long as there is no reduction of oil, starts easily etc. The cold start misfire is usually linked with bad glow plugs or air in the fuel injection hard lines.

Zulfiqar Bhai, I have checked both things as you suggested but the problem is still there. What to do now.

[cool_raja]

sticking a nissan diesel or any other diesel in your accord will end in tears, the frame is not designed for the engine and remaking stuff just to get it to fit will take reliability out of the window. If you are pestered with CNG queues and want to switch to diesel then get a car which comes as factory diesel.

xulfiqar bhai ur help needed here
https://www.pakwheels.com/forums/engine-transmission-powertrain/217982-help-needed-diesel-engine#post3953073

[Dani80pk]

How can we check AIS (Air Industion System) for blockage OR does it ever gets blocked. I have seen in my car that the line coming from exhaust (EGR one) was badly choked and I guessed that engine is not getting proper air (or bad air). I had cleaned it but could not get any difference in power or mileage. Could you please elaborate how to clean it and AIS. Also tell us symptoms that occur when Air Industion System is out of order. Thanks & regards

[Xulfiqar]

the intake manifold should not be sludged up, the airbox should be sealed, the valve clearances should be correct and the valves should be sealing correctly.

[Dani80pk]

UPDATE:

The cars engine got extremely unstable with lot of blowby as well as starting problems and so on. I therefore, decided to replace the engine and like many expected it is yet another diesel engine. I was out of city and all purchasing as well as fitting was done in my absence. Last night I visited the workshop where the engine was fitted and ready to crank. I noticed that the diesel pump was of the old engine for which I inquired my mechanic. He told me and get me see the diesel pump that came with the new engine where there was no accelerator wire in the pump. There was a sensor on the pump as well as on accelerator in original set up of new engine therefore he had to put in the old diesel pump. I also saw that the new engine had a crank sensor cam sensor and yet it was a diesel (CD20 of course). Now I am in a state of uncertainty that if the engine does not run on its original specs would it yeild the power and reliability that is expected. If not then I have to have the card of new engine with original wiring, which is not available in Karachi.

Please advise me what to do.

Regards, Danish

[spectra]

This has been done before. EFI ones get mechanical pumps. Should work. Is the engine top cover silver or black?

[Dani80pk]

This has been done before. EFI ones get mechanical pumps. Should work. Is the engine top cover silver or black?

Saqib Bhai, thanks for reply. Tappet cover is silver. Another thing that came in my notice yesterday is that the engine's first injector also had a wire and grip for which they have replaced that particular injector with old one. Is this possible to get the engine's card. The entire wiring has came with the engine. Only card would be required and gripped in.

[spectra]

U should be able to find the card and DBW Accelerator sensor if you have found the whole wiring.

[Dani80pk]

U should be able to find the card and DBW Accelerator sensor if you have found the whole wiring.

It is not available. Also wiring that came with the engine is also not sufficient. I should have to have to the internal wiring (Dashboard) too to get things work properly and of course the card. I will try to post the pics of engine, pump and injector referred in previous posts.

Thanks & regards,

[Dani80pk]

Xulfiqar Bhai, where are you??????

[spectra]

It is not available. Also wiring that came with the engine is also not sufficient. I should have to have to the internal wiring (Dashboard) too to get things work properly and of course the card. I will try to post the pics of engine, pump and injector referred in previous posts.

Thanks & regards,

Bad luck. In this case, ger a manual pumo preferably with its own injector type. The ones currently installed might or moght not work properly.

[Demonoid]

@xulfiqar & @spectra

I found you both guys are pros in Nissan, anyhow, am a newbie. And Help me

I recently installed CD20T in my nissan B14, it is a good engine. While installing asked mechanic to place the thermostat valve, he asked me if the fans are direct or auto, i replied both are direct, then he asked an electrician to make one fan auto. Now he checked something below the dash he said there is no ECU, without ECU its not possible to make one fan auto. Then the mechanic advised me not to install thermostat valve untill i get one fan to auto. He also switched off one fan, now the car is running on one fan. On long route temp needle remain little below half. and avg i got at long is 15Km/Ltr at constant speed of 140KM/hr few times i touched 160 but couldn't go far coz was with family. Now help me what should i do?

Is it ok to place thermostat valve and both fans should remain direct?
If not then how i make one fan auto?
When or at what speed or at what rpm does the turbo kicks in?

[Xulfiqar]

@Xulfiqar & @spectra

I found you both guys are pros in Nissan, anyhow, am a newbie. And Help me

I recently installed CD20T in my nissan B14, it is a good engine. While installing asked mechanic to place the thermostat valve, he asked me if the fans are direct or auto, i replied both are direct, then he asked an electrician to make one fan auto. Now he checked something below the dash he said there is no ECU, without ECU its not possible to make one fan auto. Then the mechanic advised me not to install thermostat valve untill i get one fan to auto. He also switched off one fan, now the car is running on one fan. On long route temp needle remain little below half. and avg i got at long is 15Km/Ltr at constant speed of 140KM/hr few times i touched 160 but couldn't go far coz was with family. Now help me what should i do?

Is it ok to place thermostat valve and both fans should remain direct?
If not then how i make one fan auto?
When or at what speed or at what rpm does the turbo kicks in?

There is no direct switch to control the fans, they are controlled by a control unit inside the car (the gp control unit) - if the original one is not there they wont work, The turbocharger wont do anything if your engine has an NA model pump on it. The turbo model mechanical pump has the aneroid boost device on it to increase fuelling under boost pressure.

[Xulfiqar]

It is not available. Also wiring that came with the engine is also not sufficient. I should have to have to the internal wiring (Dashboard) too to get things work properly and of course the card. I will try to post the pics of engine, pump and injector referred in previous posts.

Thanks & regards,

You would need nearly the entire dashboard wiring of that car, the wiring actually is spidered into the HVAC and light control too, the good news is that because its Nissan - its modular - meaning if you can find it complete, its basically plug n play.

[Xulfiqar]

Saqib Bhai, thanks for reply. Tappet cover is silver. Another thing that came in my notice yesterday is that the engine's first injector also had a wire and grip for which they have replaced that particular injector with old one. Is this possible to get the engine's card. The entire wiring has came with the engine. Only card would be required and gripped in.

Dont just replace one injector - replace all of them as a matched set otherwise any difference in pressure or spray pattern will cause the engine to lope or one cylinder run out of time.

[Demonoid]

There is no direct switch to control the fans, they are controlled by a control unit inside the car (the gp control unit) - if the original one is not there they wont work, The turbocharger wont do anything if your engine has an NA model pump on it. The turbo model mechanical pump has the aneroid boost device on it to increase fuelling under boost pressure.

Thank you Xulfiqar bhai for your quick response, as i mentioned according to electrician there is no controller which should be beside dash.

Anyhow should i make one fan auto by using temp sensor?

And about turbocharger i understand that my pump has the aneroid boost device on it. as it is original CD20T

And i believe you are talking about this?

[Xulfiqar]

yep thats the aneroid, its supposed to feed off the intake manifold pressure, Its a pretty simple setup, it pushes down a plunger which has a tapered cone on the end of its shaft, this cone moves the metering sleeve to delay spill timing which means more fuel to the injector - which means - "lets haul butt"

Do you actually feel some boost activity? - you should also get a boost pressure guage to measure what boost your turbo is actually producing.