Rebirth of Khyber 1996 - Daniyal

[Xulfiqar]

quarter self start is not a measure of tune.

in correct tune engine cold start will need to assisted with choke and will need to be held on choke and fast idle till engine smooths out.

warm start should be without accelerator and will take about 2 to 3 revs of starter motor unless you have a gear reduction motor - but should immediately settle to idle very smoothly.

If your engine is idling very smoothly on cold engine without choke and starting without fighting when dead cold - you are running very very rich.

[Xulfiqar]

fresh engine will consume a little more than normal oil as the rings bed in, 10W30 is best for this engine for rapid accelerator response, quiet engine sound etc.

This engine makes a ticking sound which is normal.

[miqdadkanani]

This is some much needed guidance. Thanks for clarifying my misunderstanding.

So yes, the engine starts without fighting even a little. And yes, probably running too too rich as fuel consumption is also on extremely higher side.

i am noticing that the engine vibrates a lot though.

One thing, I may look a fool but is there a manual choke option in Khyber? I guess there wasnt any in mine? Or may be I am missing out on something?

[miqdadkanani]

using zic x7 10w-40w.

[miqdadkanani]

as a general update. Facing a lot of delays in work due to the start of Ramadan. Electrician has 3 cars lined up and is asking me to either visit on Saturday or Monday. This mechanical issue has delayed everything and I have already availed a lot of my office leaves due to this. My plan was to get the car 100% ready before Ramadan but I guess i will badly exceed the timeline.

However, I think its better to be patient as advised by nnabeel and capstat many a times than hurrying. So yes, let's see.

[Xulfiqar]

suzuki khyber had a manual choke pull lever like mehran, only cultus and margalla had thermostatic choke valve.

Its used to assist in starting and also to hold fast idle at first pull stop of it, The carburettor actually has adjustment screws for fast idle too.

Your carburettor is probably jetted too rich right now and the engine is running too cold which can pool fuel in the manifold - this is why hot coolant is circulated through manifold (to keep the fuel atomized)

Start with the top hat of it, it has air emulsion passages for the idle and mains which ensure a fuel emulsion is pulled through the throats rather than raw liquid. The secondary throttle should be easy to open and should work when called for - usually its jammed, bad or the linkages are messed up. (bend them to correct angles if they are bent out of shape and fix the bushings if the linkages are floppy)

[miqdadkanani]

The engine consumed the entire 4L bottle of oil. So I think that's what has happened.

Also, I have to Shake or move up and down the dipstick a couple of times to get the oil reading. Is it normal? Otherwise, it comes out almost dry.

[hassankhan03]

bro my 1.3L margalla takes 3.6 liter oil , and no the dipstick is not supposed to come out dry.

[Xulfiqar]

The dipstick measures the top 1 litre only.

If you had burnt all your oil, you would have a locked/siezed!

[miqdadkanani]

There is no oil leakage at all. Everything is dry. No oil traces. I wonder why is that happening

[Xulfiqar]

Is car level straight when you check?

Does dipstick show proper fill when you first fill the engine?

[brownrose78]

@miqdadkanani
I am worried as well as surprised over your engine oil loss.

Dipstick should return with oil level in 1st attempt, not in multiple attempts up and down like you mentioned.
Might be you are checking it just after driving in hot engine.

Are you sure your dipstick is not bent or not straight damaged due to aging? Is it from same engine or if from Fx or mehran? Secondly are you taking oil check when your car is on smooth even surface like zero degree and is on rest and is in cold means when car is parked there for quite sometimes.

Can you post the pictures how it is showing.

[miqdadkanani]

Ok guys. So there is something funny here which created this confusion

I was so used to noticing that black thick stuff (20w50w oil) on the dipstick that I wasn't able to notice the less viscous clear oil on the dipstick in my apartments parking.

Today, I checked the dipstick properly in clear light and noticed that oil level is very slightly above the 2nd marker. It's clear in color and came out without sharing or moving.

[miqdadkanani]

Also, got the entire Exhaust silencer Assembly replaced.

[helper_learner]

oil level is very slightly above the 2nd marker. It's clear in color and came out without sharing or moving.

Higher then 2nd mark is unsafe.

Also, got the entire Exhaust silencer Assembly replaced.

@miqdadkanani
Have you thought about under coat?

[hassankhan03]

How much oil did you put in it and how much did the exhaust system cost.

[miqdadkanani]

Actually, I was a bit worried yesterday so I poured in almost 250 ml extra, and that is why the level went up. I'll ask Irshad to pour out some extra oil.

And bro, the car is already undercoated. I have shared all steps in detail above. The shade you see is of Flash, dust and some redoxide primer that was applied prior to the undercoat

[miqdadkanani]

I poured in almost 3.8ltrs. Some extra is poured in so I'll extract that.

The Exhaust system costed me 6.2k in total from Bukhari silencer, back side of plaza.

Fitting etc costed 2.5k.

[miqdadkanani]

Previous Exhaust Assembly was in a pretry bad state. After new installation, engine vibrations have reduced and I guess mileage has also improved.

[miqdadkanani]

Also got 155/70/13 dunlop tyres and stepny installed.

A bit used. Costed me 23k for the tyres, 10k for stepny, and the guy took my old wheels for 10k.