Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Oil Drain Interval

[vitz_2006]

I want to know the drain interval of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Oil i.e after how many kilometers or how many months ,it should be changed e.g 4000 km or 5 months whichever comes first?

Any oil expert here?

[umairbvs]

basically synthetic oils are meant to have long drain intervals. usually 10,000km as per pakistani conditions. but its better to first consult the car manufacturer regarding the drain interval.

as far as time interval and milage is concerned then whichever first rule should be followed

[chinyoti]

a safe interval is 5000kms or four months, With synthetics too i wont risk going beyond the 7,500 km mark. Altho its wiser to check the condition of oil physically

[Xulfiqar]

synthetics dont guarantee long oil change mileage if your oil filter is made from cow poopoo collected from the fields or if its broken internally.

Synthetic oils are good for extreme low temperature startup situation, they will flow readily as compared to lesser quality stock which will act like glue.

[ahsanonline]

I want to know the drain interval of Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Oil i.e after how many kilometers or how many months ,it should be changed e.g 4000 km or 5 months whichever comes first?

Any oil expert here?

Don't use such thin oil, especially not in the sweltering summers of Lahore! No matter what car, I would never recommend xW-'30' grade oil. Use at least xW-40...ideally xW-50 for summer temperatures of 40-45 + Celsius.

[coolsmart]

I used to change it at 7000KM. With Shell Helix Ultra 5W-30 i found the engine quiter as compared to zic xq 5w-40.
I prefer to use thin oil. Bcz some time our drivers dont warm up engine or unncessarily revive engine too fast at other time. So for quick lubrication i normally use ultra 5w-30. (My Theory). and this engine oil can be also be used in light diesel vehicle so summer should not be an issue with this specific brand.

[5555]

drain interval according to shell is 10000kms but its better to change between 5000-6000kms

[salik990]

i do at 7000km but first oil drainage is at 5000km...using it in my civic reborn

[alee1]

^ rite , i do similar to my 8th gen civic...
op i use same synthetic u talk and drain at 7k kms approx, since my car travels all that in 2 months so i cant tell u its limit in terms of months

[tyrone_40]

a safe interval is 5000kms or four months, With synthetics too i wont risk going beyond the 7,500 km mark. Altho its wiser to check the condition of oil physically

Do the months really matter? For instance I changed mine in Aug, 2012 and its now April, 13 (about 8 months) but I have just completed 4,000 kms but @murtaza bhai told me to change it after 4,000 kms if you want its ok

[mwm749]

[h=1]Changing Oil Preference - Synthetic vs. Mineral Oils[/h]

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Phil Ramsey
Tags: synthetic lubricantsThe customers in my shop, as well as many readers of Machinery Lubrication magazine have asked for guidance when deciding whether to use petroleum (mineral-based) or synthetic oil in their vehicles. I’ve hesitated to comment on the virtues of one over the other because I was in a state of change; I am changing my mind about synthetic oil. Synthetic oil has become my first choice for cars, especially for newer cars.
In previous articles, I have presented strong convictions about oil. I have argued the pros and cons of multi- and single-weighted oils.[SUP]1[/SUP] Yet, I have avoided choosing between mineral-based oils and synthetics. It was only on the Noria Web site message boards that I stated my preference for mineral-based lubricants. Why? Because I was still trying to resolve “my final answer” on the question.
As with most decisions in life, this one was based on money. But other considerations also influenced the outcome: money, personal enrichment from continuing education and peer pressure have changed my mind about changing oil. Simply said, the three reasons for change are money, new knowledge and deciding to go with the flow of my fellow mechanics.
Money

The common price for a quart of 10W-30 brand-name petroleum-based oil at a local auto parts store is $2.25. The common price for brand-name synthetic oil is $4.95 per quart - about twice the price of petroleum oil. Why would I want to pay twice as much for engine lubrication? I have to admit thatsynthetic oil lasts longer. The reason it lasts longer is not because petroleum oil wears out. I can remember re-refiners in previous decades that collected waste oil and refined it to a usable form. This was before we used the modern term “recycle.” It was certainly better than spreading the wasted oil on dusty roads.[SUP]2[/SUP]
Synthetic oils have proven that they can last far longer than twice the recommended 3,000-mile oil change and still maintain their lubricant qualities.
I grew up in this business at a time when a car that lasted 120,000 miles was a phenomenon. Reaching 200,000 to 300,000 miles is now becoming the norm, and why not? My father bought an air-conditioned 1955 Chevrolet for $2,000. My first new car was a 1970 Grand Prix for which I paid $5,600. I bought a new 1976 Volkswagen van with no air conditioning, and a stick shift for about $6,800. (I put a fuel-injected 2.0-liter Porsche 914 four-cylinder motor in it, and WOW - it was a fun car!) It would cost me about $32,000 to replace my wife’s Buick Park Avenue with a 2004 model.
When I used to change a lot of engines in the 1970s and 80s, the typical bill would run about $1,800 for installation of a remanufactured engine. That price has more than doubled today. The reason is that engines are much more complicated now than they were then. Overhead cams, aluminum blocks and heads, exotic intake and exhaust manifolds, and compact and precision engine compartments have added to the total bill. Anything to protect and extend the life of these components must be considered.
Graph these figures and you will see why it is cheaper to invest $5.00 in a quart of synthetic oil; it will extend the life of your engine and require less frequent lubricant changes.
New Knowledge
Why do synthetic oils often last longer? Heat and oxidation are the primary reasons for oil break down. Petroleum-based lubricants are mixtures of several sizes of hydrocarbon molecules, sulphur, paraffins, salts and metals. With different evaporation, oxygenation and burn points for each size and type of molecule, the refined petroleum-based oils start changing to an extent the moment you start your car.
In time, a lubricant will have a diminished ability to perform its job, which is to lubricate metal-to-metal contact surfaces in machinery and to transfer heat away from the area being lubricated. The diminished ability to lubricate increases as the molecules of various size and weight are consumed by evaporation and oxidation. Lubrication ability may continue to diminish as these various molecules interact with the blow-by gases and other contaminants in the engine environment. Additives are used to control acid, stabilize viscosity, and keep soot in suspension. The additives are typically consumed as they do their job. Therefore, in many cases, but not all cases oil needs to be changed at familiar intervals of 3,000 or 5,000 miles.
Synthetics are more uniform. Synthetic oils are much more thermally stable as a result of this uniformity. For instance, synthetic oils need lessVI improver additive to keep their viscosity stable. Synthetic oil additives may be higher quality or at least work longer.
Synthetics may have better viscosity film strength than petroleum stocks at elevated temperatures (greater than 176?F/80?C). Film strength indicates a lubricant’s ability to occupy the space between two metal surfaces under pressure or heat. This is the fundamental reason for lubrication, to hang in there and do the job. Higher film strength was one of the factors that changed my mind about changing oil.
However the final straw is the fact that many synthetics have a much higher base number (BN) retention than petroleum-based formulations. The BN is contributed by overbase additives such as detergents and is a measure of a lubricant’s ability to neutralize acid. The longer a lubricant can resist turning to acid, the longer it can be used. This fact, along with the decreasing cost differential of the two lubricants, is reason enough to use synthetics.
Going with The Flow
I and my fellow mechanics are awakening to the idea of extended oil drain intervals. The quick-lube shops and petroleum oil manufacturers are naturally going to resist the idea for their own economic interests. But weighing the upward spiraling costs of today’s oil and gasoline, the synthetics with their better protection and extended drain intervals are looking good.

Briefly, I want to add that oil filtration must be the very best if you are going to practice extended drains. I will discuss oil filters in an upcoming issueof the magazine, because they are important enough to have an article devoted exclusively to their role and performance.
To those who are wary of suddenly extending your oil drain intervals, I would recommend to use oil analysis to confirm the results.

[h=1]Advantages of Synthetic Base Oils[/h]

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Noria Corporation
Tags: synthetic lubricantsPetroleum-based mineral oils function very well as lubricants in probably 90 percent of industrial applications. They are cost-effective and provide a reasonable service life if used properly but have some limitations, depending upon the specific type of base stock used, the refining technology, the type and level of additives blended, and the operating conditions encountered. The main service difficulties within mineral oils are:
1. The presence of waxes, which can result in poor flow properties at low temperature.
2. Poor oxidation stability at continuously high temperatures, which can lead to sludge and acid buildup.
3. The significant change in viscosity as the temperature changes, which can cause the base oil to thin excessively at high temperature.
4. A practical maximum high-temperature application limit of about 125 degrees C (250 degrees F) above which the base oil oxidizes very rapidly. It is desired to keep mineral oil-based lubricants within the operating range of 40 to 65 degrees C (100 to 150 degrees F).
Synthetic base oils are expensive because of the processing involved in creating these pure chemical base oils. Their use must justify the additional cost. There should be a financial benefit to using them.
With regard to their chemical purity, think of the analogy of a container of balls. Mineral oil would be like having the container filled with many different balls of different shapes and sizes, such as footballs, baseballs, tennis balls, ping-pong balls, soccer balls, golf balls, etc. Mineral oils contain thousands, if not millions, of different chemical structures (molecules). A synthetic oil would be the equivalent of having the container filled with just one type of ball (tennis balls). Every structure in the container of synthetic oil is almost identical to the structure beside it.
The two main advantages of synthetic oils are their ability to outperform mineral oils at high operating temperatures (above 185 degrees F) and at low operating temperatures (below 0 degrees F). There are other potential advantages, too.
Depending on the type of synthetic, other advantages of synthetic lubricants (beyond the high- and low-temperature advantage) may include:

• Improved energy efficiency (less than 1 percent) due to better low-temperature properties
• Higher oil film strength with some synthetics
• Extended warranties by some equipment manufacturers
• Lower engine hydrocarbon emissions
• Extended drain intervals in some (clean) applications
• Biodegradability with some synthetics (esters)
• Natural detergency
• Higher viscosity index
• Fire resistance (phosphate esters)

Courtesy; "Machinery Lubrication"

[chinyoti]

Do the months really matter? For instance I changed mine in Aug, 2012 and its now April, 13 (about 8 months) but I have just completed 4,000 kms but @Murtaza bhai told me to change it after 4,000 kms if you want its ok

Since you normally drive you car, You should follow the mileage, I guess the cars that dont drive much four months or 5000 km what comes first is the best policy

[tyrone_40]

Since you normally drive you car, You should follow the mileage, I guess the cars that dont drive much four months or 5000 km what comes first is the best policy

Ok then I better change it and will go for HX7

[gorkan]

Don't use such thin oil, especially not in the sweltering summers of Lahore! No matter what car, I would never recommend xW-'30' grade oil. Use at least xW-40...ideally xW-50 for summer temperatures of 40-45 + Celsius.

doesn't the engine's internal operating temperature remain roughly the same regardless of outside temperature. Its the job of the cooling system (radiator) to maintain an optimal engine temperature. so if the cooling system is doing it's job it doesn't matter it's winter or summer.

[bilalahmad]

doesn't the engine's internal operating temperature remain roughly the same regardless of outside temperature. Its the job of the cooling system (radiator) to maintain an optimal engine temperature. so if the cooling system is doing it's job it doesn't matter it's winter or summer.

Exactly I have the same point of view when any friend start discussing summer winter thing with me.

Can anyone clarify whats the effect of thin oil on engine life, I feel my engine sound loud with ZIC 5w

[gorkan]

Exactly I have the same point of view when any friend start discussing summer winter thing with me.

Can anyone clarify whats the effect of thin oil on engine life, I feel my engine sound loud with ZIC 5w

In thin oil, engine parts can move more freely and the engine can sound louder. that's why some dealers put thick oil in cars with weak engines to muffle the engine sounds and cheat the buyer.

You should always use the oil recommended by the engine manufacturer. and for the modern engines (since late nineties), usually thinner oils like 5w-30 are recommended because they operate on very tight tolerances and parts need to move freely and efficiently, they need a less viscous medium.

The protection actually comes from the oil film that's formed on the surface of moving parts, So if the film doesn't break and is thicker than the dust particles suspended in the oil, it should theoretically protect the engine. (at least the theory that makes sense to me)

Mineral oils have a tendency to break down with use, and they loose the ability to form a strong film. however synthetic oils retain this characteristic for much much longer period. and the only reason to change them is that with time they accumulate a lot of dust/carbon/engine debris particles. and this happens rather quickly in our environment.

I personally feel that with good air/oil filters it's safe to use synthetic oils with ten thousand km drain intervals. and this is what I am doing with my vitz for the past 5+ years, and haven't had a single issue, alhamdolillah

[OmRON]

World has changed, 3000 Mile myth is not more existent. New Specs Oil with new APISN and ILSAC GF-5 standard have different behavior. No one has time to study Oil chemistry. Future oils are Synthetic Oils. Oil companies want our money in their pockets. They resist Synthetic Oil by many means.

Most engine wear and tear happen while cranking a cold engine. Thin oils spared better spontaneously where needed to avoid wear and tear. Synthetic oil behavior change oppositely than mineral oil with temperature. Infact there are new BMW and Mercedes which have recommended oil change interval is 48,000 Miles (not Kms).

Synthetic Oils solved lot of problems, higher interval time, less oil to recycle and Engine life improvements. No one is bold enough to experiment on his new car's engine. But I did. I change Zic A+ at 10,000 Kms - 12,000 Kms. I am doing this since 2003. 10 Long year. I am doing this with my 5 Cars, 1 4X4 Jeep and 5 Chinese Generators. They all are perfect, their engine sound, performance, pick and drive is same like new ones. Most people don't believe this.

Our people are in favor of 20-50W, but in my opinion its ignorant thought. I have my faith with experience that Synthetic Oils are the best and money saver.

REST is just a debate, drag it as far , where you want to.

SK ZIC A+ I am your true FAN.

===================================
OmRON

In thin oil, engine parts can move more freely and the engine can sound louder. that's why some dealers put thick oil in cars with weak engines to muffle the engine sounds and cheat the buyer.

You should always use the oil recommended by the engine manufacturer. and for the modern engines (since late nineties), usually thinner oils like 5w-30 are recommended because they operate on very tight tolerances and parts need to move freely and efficiently, they need a less viscous medium.

The protection actually comes from the oil film that's formed on the surface of moving parts, So if the film doesn't break and is thicker than the dust particles suspended in the oil, it should theoretically protect the engine. (at least the theory that makes sense to me)

Mineral oils have a tendency to break down with use, and they loose the ability to form a strong film. however synthetic oils retain this characteristic for much much longer period. and the only reason to change them is that with time they accumulate a lot of dust/carbon/engine debris particles. and this happens rather quickly in our environment.

I personally feel that with good air/oil filters it's safe to use synthetic oils with ten thousand km drain intervals. and this is what I am doing with my vitz for the past 5+ years, and haven't had a single issue, alhamdolillah

[ZESTY]

drain interval according to shell is 10000kms but its better to change between 5000-6000kms

Why is it better to change at 5000-6000 Kms?

Sent from my iPhone

[ZESTY]

In thin oil, engine parts can move more freely and the engine can sound louder. that's why some dealers put thick oil in cars with weak engines to muffle the engine sounds and cheat the buyer.

You should always use the oil recommended by the engine manufacturer. and for the modern engines (since late nineties), usually thinner oils like 5w-30 are recommended because they operate on very tight tolerances and parts need to move freely and efficiently, they need a less viscous medium.

The protection actually comes from the oil film that's formed on the surface of moving parts, So if the film doesn't break and is thicker than the dust particles suspended in the oil, it should theoretically protect the engine. (at least the theory that makes sense to me)

Mineral oils have a tendency to break down with use, and they loose the ability to form a strong film. however synthetic oils retain this characteristic for much much longer period. and the only reason to change them is that with time they accumulate a lot of dust/carbon/engine debris particles. and this happens rather quickly in our environment.

I personally feel that with good air/oil filters it's safe to use synthetic oils with ten thousand km drain intervals. and this is what I am doing with my vitz for the past 5+ years, and haven't had a single issue, alhamdolillah

Very logical answer and m happy that at least there r people who understand engine oils.

I have been arguing on pakwheels but our people who r guided by their mechanics don't understand the reality. Cars engine operates at a particular temperature, oils job is not only to lubricate but importantly to transfer the heat n to act as a heat carrier. 5w30 flows better and transfers heat better. Being synthetic it's more stable, it's molecules r more symmetric and polymers r more strong. People who say to change full synthetic oils at 5000 Kms are misguiding others. Even if u check oil properties after 10000 Kms from a lab oil will still be perfect. I want to salute those who say that they checked oil viscosity with hand n oil was perfect, plz dnt misguide u cnt check viscosity by hand.

A clean oil after 5000 Kms is a bad oil, oil should come dirty out of Ur car. I used shell helix hx 7 for 4 years in my cultus, a daily runner wen I sold it was clocked at 150000 Kms n car was perfect. I changed HX 7 at 7000 Kms n never had a single problem. I request all to not misguide anyone if u r not sure about some thing.

Sent from my iPhone

[ZESTY]

World has changed, 3000 Mile myth is not more existent. New Specs Oil with new APISN and ILSAC GF-5 standard have different behavior. No one has time to study Oil chemistry. Future oils are Synthetic Oils. Oil companies want our money in their pockets. They resist Synthetic Oil by many means.

Most engine wear and tear happen while cranking a cold engine. Thin oils spared better spontaneously where needed to avoid wear and tear. Synthetic oil behavior change oppositely than mineral oil with temperature. Infact there are new BMW and Mercedes which have recommended oil change interval is 48,000 Miles (not Kms).

Synthetic Oils solved lot of problems, higher interval time, less oil to recycle and Engine life improvements. No one is bold enough to experiment on his new car's engine. But I did. I change Zic A+ at 10,000 Kms - 12,000 Kms. I am doing this since 2003. 10 Long year. I am doing this with my 5 Cars, 1 4X4 Jeep and 5 Chinese Generators. They all are perfect, their engine sound, performance, pick and drive is same like new ones. Most people don't believe this.

Our people are in favor of 20-50W, but in my opinion its ignorant thought. I have my faith with experience that Synthetic Oils are the best and money saver.

REST is just a debate, drag it as far , where you want to.

SK ZIC A+ I am your true FAN.

===================================
OmRON

Very good answer, totally agreed

Sent from my iPhone