Third Generation Toyota Vitz Guide

[anon35615524]

Bro 17-17.5 kmpl is also OK, not a bad fuel efficiency at all!

Some steps to increase Fuel Efficiency

Fuel economy depends on a lot of factors:

1. Grade / Quality of engine oil being poured (start from the thinnest recommended by the OEM, but also look at odo reading)
2. Condition of Air Filter (must always be neat and Clean)
3. Driving habits of the driver (driving with extremely light and soft foot, like I drive. Not to be a lead footer. Applying brakes gently, accelerating / decelerating slowly and smoothly, etc. If your "Green" Eco light does not go away other than on signals, it can mean that you drive carefully and cautiously)
4. Maintaining proper and recommended Tire pressure (people mostly do not take care of it, but it matters!)
5. Wheels to be always balanced and aligned
6. Regular, periodic maintenance of the ride; on time, and from a good garage or mechanic, etc.
7. Conditions of roads where you drive (my usual drive daily is about 60-65 Kms min. i.e. my route is a bit long. Sometimes, there are severe traffic jams, and sometimes, there is very low traffic (as is usually on Fridays here in Rawalpindi due to holiday)
8. Driving on a ~constant and reasonable speed, like 60-80 or 90 kmph, etc.
9. Etc. Etc.

By following above steps, you can also increase your car's fuel efficiency.

[aunabbas_90]

Thank you basit bhai

[anon35615524]

Just an update regarding quantity of engine oil required (with filter change) in 1KR-FE in Vitz (2nd generation, 3rd generation, 3rd generation facelifts, etc.):

As I had mentioned yesterday, I came across Vitz owners / users manuals from the previous generations, and look what I found:

Picture taken from the manual of 2nd generation Vitz (August 2007 and onwards)

(By onwards, I here mean, unless / until next facelift, model or generation, etc. was introduced)

Old 1KR-FE, which reqd. 3.1L engine oil with oil filter change.

Recommended engine oil grades: 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 (but look at API and ILSAC ratings, these are not the current API SN / SN Plus or ILSAC GF-5)

Source: https://toyota.jp/pages/contents/vitz/003_p_017/pdf/spec/vitz_201008.pdf page 426 of 480

Picture taken from the manual of 3rd generation Vitz (December 2010 and onwards)

Again, Old 1KR-FE, which reqd. 3.1L engine oil with oil filter change.

Recommended engine oil grades: 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 (and this time, API and ILSAC ratings are changed and updated to the latest / current ratings, i.e. API SN with RC (Resource Conserving) / ILSAC GF-5)

Source: https://toyota.jp/pages/contents/vitz/003_p_017/pdf/spec/vitz_201307.pdf page 369 of 404

Picture taken from the manual of 3rd generation, 1st Facelift Vitz (April 2014 and onwards)

Here, new, improved and refined 1KR-FE, which requires 2.8L engine oil with oil filter change. So, I can assume that improved and refined 1KR-FE in Vitz was introduced in April, 2014 and onwards, in 1st facelift version of 3rd generation Vitz (my car; 2015 model 1.0F Vitz (manufactured in November, 2015) falls in this category, and all the things as per following owners / users manual will apply).

Recommended engine oil grades: 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30 and 10w-30 (with latest / current ratings, i.e. API SN with RC (Resource Conserving) / ILSAC GF-5)

So fellows, ZIC A+ 5w-20 (or from any other reputed brand; Shell, etc.) is fully and equally compatible with 2015 model Vitz. Guaranteed and confirm as per manual.

Source: https://toyota.jp/pages/contents/vitz/003_p_017/pdf/spec/vitz_201605.pdf page 399 of 440

(please download and save this manual. This is the manual which 100% applies to our models)

Picture taken from the manual of 3rd generation, 2nd Facelift Vitz (January 2017 and onwards)

I believe, the same 1KR-FE, as in 3rd generation, 1st Facelift Vitz.

Recommended engine oil grades: ONLY 02! 0w-20 and 5w-30 (with latest / current ratings, i.e. API SN with RC (Resource Conserving) / ILSAC GF-5)

Source: https://toyota.jp/pages/contents/vitz/003_p_017/pdf/spec/vitz_201806.pdf page 447 of 492

I have tried my level best regarding 1KR-FE through different generations of Vitz, along with quantity of engine oil reqd., OEM recommended oil grades / viscosities; most importantly, when new, improved and refined 1KR-FE was introduced in Vitz? Please correct, if I made mistake somewhere, or if I missed something.

I hope, above info, especially links to the owners / users manuals for Vitz help. Thank you.

[aunabbas_90]

Great information, thank you for sharing

[aunabbas_90]

Now as our vitz mostly people here are having 3rd Gen. 1st Facelift (April 2014 onwards up to Dec 2016)
Recommended Oil grades are 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30
So which one amongst these to use, which not.
I was just going through an article and it summed up 5w-20 vs 5w-30 quite amazingly.
Plz have a read https://www.zoniv.com/5w20-vs-5w30/
Also in the end "The take away" was :-

But if you are not using synthetic oils, and mineral based ones. Then for hotter regions like the one we live experts recommend 5w-30
In synthetics ones you can go for 5w-20 or 5w-30 any one.

[anon35615524]

Recommended Oil grades are 0w-20, 5w-20, 5w-30 So which one amongst these to use, which not.

Bro, any of these can be used! Not an issue at all, if you use 0w-20, 5w-20 or 5w-30! All these oil grades are recommended for our rides, by none other than the OEM itself.

I have used 5w-20 and 5w-30 in my ex-ride Passo; both did not make much difference, however, engine start up at cold, and fuel efficiency became slightly better after pouring in ZIC A+ 5w-20.

As its said that you learn with the passage of time, if now given an option, I would go for 0w-20!

(I have a carton of ZIC A+ 5w-20, if I hadn't bought it, I would have gone for 0w-20, may be from ZIC, Shell or Caltex Chevron (all of these offer 1L / 3L packings). I have excluded Total Quartz 9000 Future series 0w-20, as its currently available in 4L packing only)

I have read the article and it says that for hotter climates, go for 5w-30. Totally agreed and absolutely correct.

But what about Atlas Honda Pakistan, which is pouring 0w-20 in all of their brand new Civic, City and BRVs, for use in throughout Pakistan? Even Toyota USA is now recommending 0w-20 in all of their brand new vehicles, and USA is quite hot; have many regions comparable with Pakistan, coupled with dust, humidity, etc. (although they have clearly mentioned in the cars owners / users manuals that in case of severe conditions, like racing, extreme loading conditions, etc. switch to thicker grades, however, I think for normal use, 0w-20 is more than enough for Toyota vehicles in USA.)

Still, if vehicle is very low on odo reading, pour in 0w-20 (my car at ~18K Kms came with 0w-20 from Japan). If you face any issues or odo reading is higher; 5w-20, then 5w-30, and up to the max. of 10w-30 (at very high miles). And always go for 100% Fully synthetic / synthetic oils. Semi-synthetics and mineral oils may be avoided.

[aunabbas_90]

I am considering this thing Fully synthetic n 5w-20 of a good imported brand equivalent to LiquiMoly. As it doesn't offer 5w-20 , n not fully synthetic. They are sort of semi synthetic.

[anon35615524]

I have just checked. You can look for 5w-20 in Amsoil, Valvoline, Mobil 1, Castrol and Caltex (if available here locally).

[hamza_xeg]

No i don't have 2015 vitz, however in the past i had 2005 vitz with 15 inch wheels, don't remember exact profile but the ride was very comfortable and there was no rubbing or anything. Ground clearance was reasonable. No spacers either. Personally not in favour of those. Car get's lifted from the back, looks ugly and handling is compromised.

The profile i mentioned was of my Probox. Car originally had 14 inch steel rims which later were changed because of ground clearance issues to 15 inch alloys with 195/60/R15 Dunlop LM702 tyres. When time came to change tyres i jumped to 195/65/R15 Michelin tyres and they rubbed on both front and sometimes back. I sent someone to return those tyres and get them in the previous profile but at the time the shop keeper didn't had michelin tyres in the profile i wanted and fitted dunlop sp sport 200e which are rock hard. I must say in the brief time i had michelin's it even transformed probox's ride, it became very comfortable and smooth on potholes and cat eyes. So we paid the price of michelin's but got dunlop tyres. I don't have any spacers on it. Let me tell you jumping from 14 to 15 inch changed the game. It doesn't touch on many jumps, only if the jump is abnormal and i have too many people on board, even that is solved with a bit of zig-zagging. Fuel consumption increased slightly but not by much. Sorry for the long essay

[pwuser155009269518]

Never ever replace the genuine springs with any other springs.

[pwuser155009269518]

What about quantity of engine oil does this effect? How much engine oil do you poured last time?

[anon35615524]

Personally not in favour of those. Car get's lifted from the back, looks ugly and handling is compromised.

jumping from 14 to 15 inch changed the game. It doesn't touch on many jumps, only if the jump is abnormal and i have too many people on board, even that is solved with a bit of zig-zagging

Sorry for the long essay

No problem! (Main b kuj kamm nai karta! ) But really great to know and learn from your experience.

[anon35615524]

@aunabbas_90

I discussed this thing with one of the suspension guys yesterday; about the Pros / Cons of Desi springs, and how do they cater for Ground Clearance issues? As per him, Japanese springs which come in Vitz (or any other JDM) are a no match to locally made, "Desi" springs. Local springs are hard, and at the same time brittle, and highly prone to break. Japanese springs must not be replaced with Desi, hard springs, especially to cater for ground clearance issues.

To cater for ground clearance issues, he said to simply go for packing (however small it may be), and when you up-size rims, tires, or both, 80% ground clearance issues are automatically resolved.

And I think, he is correct in what he said. He insisted to never replace original JDM springs with the Desi ones. And regarding packing, he said that packing specs / dimensions are almost same for Vitz, Aqua, Prius, etc. He even showed me some, and all were custom made, with Silver metal. Sizes were also similar. He said that material and specs are same, but charges are different for different models. For Vitz; packing + fitting / labor charges were PKR 2000. For Aqua or Prius, the charges were PKR 3000.

[anon35615524]

What about quantity of engine oil does this effect?

I think, this has got nothing to do with fuel efficiency. If engine oil level is not touching the minimum mark; its in-between max. and min., or touching maximum mark, you are good to go.

How much engine oil do you poured last time?

I think, it was ~3L.

[pwuser155009269518]

I poured 3l and level was above the max mark. So i removed 200ml but now it is in between max and min mark.

[anon35615524]

I am not sure, but I think, the guy might have removed more than 200 ml oil. As you are saying, it shouldn't happen.

On 2.8L oil, it touches max. mark, and on 3L oil, it increases from the max. mark and goes slightly higher on the dipstick.

On 2.8L engine oil, and in-between the max. and min. marks, it seems somewhat strange. Please recheck.

@aunabbas_90 Please guide Shahzad based on your recent experience with engine oil change, and exact quantity of 2.8L oil.

[pwuser155009269518]

He removed in front of me it wasnt more then 200ml=0.2L.

[pwuser155009269518]

I think we all have purchased vitz for its comfort and stability even a minor unbalance in suspension will cause instabilty. Hence i have concluded springs or spacers is a risky option.

[aunabbas_90]

He is pretty much right. Bro i tell u one thing, u can put in packing, if not satisfied, then u may remove them.
I tested my car at full load yesterday, rather over load, with my current profile of 185/65/R14 n 0.75" spacer, car dint touch any speed breaker in Islamabad.
And manoeuvring is not effected as i ve noticed on sharp turns, car aint skidding.

[aunabbas_90]

Shahzad there is nothing to worry about. Oil is between min n max. So u r good to go. It shouldn't be touching min or more then max. As more is harmful to the engine in the long run. Seals life reduces early, you might experience early leaking problems. And if it is less, then lubrication of major parts gets compromised. For e.g on cold startUp the engine pumps the oil thru the pan, piston starts moving right the next second you start the car.. dry reciprocating might lead to early wear of piston cylinder.
So in short always keep a balance.
You noticed removing of 200mL but are you sure he poured exactly 3.0 Ltrs ?? I blv he might have saved some. May be. This is the only case. Else the car is not that old that the engine is eating up the oil.
Brother i think you once told that you had quite a long gap after oil change to the day you reduced it. So there is possibility of 5-10% evaporation n heat losses.. i read it somewhere that a very small quantity of oil is compromised in evaporation as well..
Anyways you need to keep a check at next oil change.
Follow this method. Pour in 2.5 Ltrs exact. Then top up rest 300mL by observing dip stick.
Regards