What engine oil do you use

[irfansiddique]

I still have 700ml of oil left

dear nobody is doubting your oil, if you have bought it from a reputed good shop thn chances are high that you got original stuff, but just for knowledge i saw fake bottles, trust me they were as good as original ones. . anyways my point is that how come you have 700 ml oil left (assuming u bought 4L bottle), as per manual our civic consume 3.7L with filter and 3.5 without. ? ? ? ? ? ?

[RedBull_ar]

Incremental performance is. Unless the experts here come up with a valid argument other than "the oil I got is fake", I can safely presume that ZIC A+ is plainly better than Mobil 1

mobil1 fully synthetic is equivalent to zic XQ
zic A+ is not fully synthetic. rather formulated like one

the reason u didnt feel any diff in ur altis is because you already have a new engine.

@all saying dont shift to synthetic after 50k kms
i shifted to fully synthetic at 40k km , at 80k km, and at 2.5k km

the 80k km driven car is at 120k km now, no oil decrease noted ever. probably because the car was using shell helix Blue, which is synthetic like oil and was changed every 4k km

[sja79]

Hi Friends, I am using Havoline Formula in My Alto-2003 since last two year and facing gear changing problem (Mostly in 2nd gear), even after changing Clutch n Pressure Plates.
Will Switching to some other oil helps me. or should i use some other oil for Gear??

[Storm]

@Storm

Not possible because its a new car. Toyota Oil was used on 2500km and Mobil 1 on 5000km. Current mileage is 5150kms.

if the car is new then you are 100% correct. this cannot be a factor. did the car behave the same way once warned up or just when cold? how was it later on did the car behave differntly or the same?

I dont get it. How are you guys deducing that the oil I got is a fake when you guys havn't even seen it. The notion that it is fake is clearly dismissed by the fact that I have noticed a performance improvement.

i'm not doubting it's real (never have) i think everyone is just being sceptical due to the way most sellers behave. i think that if your seller is reliable that should be good enough for you to have peace of mind.

[Storm]

also which is better synthetic or mineral?
currently em using havoline formula 10w-30...got 2010 city...
thanks

all depends on your usage and expectations. i've never been a fan of synthetics since i change my oil on time every time (used to do it at 2500kms) but since i discovered Fuchs and Petromin oils i've moved to 5000kms and complete peace of mind. both offer long drain capability and are as good as they claim. many other oils (if real) nowdays are also good and i'm not going to bad mouth them either.

however if your engine is new and you don't regularly monitor your oils then maybe synthetic is for you. but no matter what you use you MUST change at 5000km in PK (and this is why i do not find synthetics cost effective in our region).

[Storm]

Hi Friends, I am using Havoline Formula in My Alto-2003 since last two year and facing gear changing problem (Mostly in 2nd gear), even after changing Clutch n Pressure Plates.
Will Switching to some other oil helps me. or should i use some other oil for Gear??

sounds like your issue is probably gearbox related

[sja79]

@Storm bhai,
Agar gear box ka problem hota tu 2years main tu yeh problem mazeed worst hojana chaheye tha, but it is at athe same level. my mechanic said that this is normal in Alto's that gear changing is not so smooth as compared to other cars, is it true?
he also recommend me to use ZIC gear oil, which is less thick, please advise.

[mani1]

dear nobody is doubting your oil, if you have bought it from a reputed good shop thn chances are high that you got original stuff, but just for knowledge i saw fake bottles, trust me they were as good as original ones. . anyways my point is that how come you have 700 ml oil left (assuming u bought 4L bottle), as per manual our civic consume 3.7L with filter and 3.5 without. ? ? ? ? ? ?

The thing which irks me is that when no one has any rational explanation left, they always claim any thing to be faulty/fake. Happened here with the oil and happened on other threads with my new cars, Honda civic and Corolla GLI. It is funny at first but then it becomes irritating.

As far as your question regarding the oil quantity is concerned, I purchased 5L. You can see the bottles in the pics

[mani1]

if the car is new then you are 100% correct. this cannot be a factor. did the car behave the same way once warned up or just when cold? how was it later on did the car behave differntly or the same?

i'm not doubting it's real (never have) i think everyone is just being sceptical due to the way most sellers behave. i think that if your seller is reliable that should be good enough for you to have peace of mind.

Thanks for the first sensible reply I had been waiting for. I am being a bit careful as the car has only done 200kms on the new oil therefore till date, I always wait for the car to warm up for atleast 15 secs.

I have noticed one thing though. The car seems to perform and become 'rev happy' almost 10-15 mins into driving. Previously(on the mineral oil) whenever I used to press the accelerator while on roll on (with A/C on) the car never responded but now (after the oil change), whenever I do so, the car promptly revs to 5k from 2k.

[ahsanzs]

dear nobody is doubting your oil, if you have bought it from a reputed good shop thn chances are high that you got original stuff, but just for knowledge i saw fake bottles, trust me they were as good as original ones. . anyways my point is that how come you have 700 ml oil left (assuming u bought 4L bottle), as per manual our civic consume 3.7L with filter and 3.5 without?

Because this refill quantity is for first time or after overhaul. Otherwise little bit of oil is left in the system which could sometimes be more than half litre. @mani1 has given you his answer here.

@all saying dont shift to synthetic after 50k kms
i shifted to fully synthetic at 40k km , at 80k km, and at 2.5k km

the 80k km driven car is at 120k km now, no oil decrease noted ever. probably because the car was using shell helix Blue, which is synthetic like oil and was changed every 4k km

You are right, this was because you had no existing sludge buildup due to the semi-synthetic.

Hi Friends, I am using Havoline Formula in My Alto-2003 since last two year and facing gear changing problem (Mostly in 2nd gear), even after changing Clutch n Pressure Plates.
Will Switching to some other oil helps me. or should i use some other oil for Gear??

All Suzukis' gearshifts are hard. Plus 2nd gear requires most effort (in RHD) because it is the most inconvenient location. Going from first to second, you can always slam backwards but neutral to second is especially difficult as away then back is very awkward. In addition to others' replies, have your engine foundations checked. Are you pressing the clutch to its fullest? Maybe the clutch wire has relaxed with use and even pressing to pedal fully is not completely disengaging the clutch. Also check the floor mat. Maybe the floor mat is coming under the clutch pedal and you have the impression of clutch being fully pressed and in fact it is not. Take note that such problem (complete clutch disengagement not happening) is not necessary to occur with all gears at once.

[KKNIAZI]

@salman_M5
Ultra 7 is a mineral oil, Zic is Synthetic
Ultra 7s API certification is SL (current) Zic A+ is SM (also current)
Ultra 7s SAE rating is 20W50, Zic A+ is 5W30 (not good for hot climates - it'll flash)
Ultra 7 is alot cheaper than Zic A+ and both can last at least 5000km in our environment.
Ultra 7s TBN is 8.4, Zic A+'s TBN is unknown at the moment (should be around 10)

Specific gravity @15 degrees 0.848 (Zic A+), 0.894 (ultra 7)
Viscosity @40 degrees 62.95 (Zic A+), 169 (ultra 7)
Viscosity @100 degrees 10.5 (Zic A+), 19.2 (ultra 7)
Viscosity Index 157 (Zic A+), 130 (ultra 7)
Flash point 230 degrees (Zic A+), 240 (ultra 7)
Pour point-37.5 degrees (Zic A+), -24 (ultra 7)

Storm!
You are suggesting ZIC will flash in our climates while your comparison suggests that ZIC and Ultra7 has same flash point (more or less).
Further, if you look into your comparison, viscosity of ultra7 being 169 (assuming centistroke) is much higher (will be more at ambient temperature) thus requiring more energy and time to 'warm up' to actually cause the 'cooling effect' or reduce friction in layman's terms. It is esp. will be more important factor in a 'cold start' of vehicle. The other specs. of the oil like SG, Pour point and viscosity index (which I think you have made the other way round) is better for ZIC A+.

TBH, I will never make a comparison of two entirely different base oils, one (like yourself) I am not a fan of synthetics other its just not right, its apples versus oranges.

I hope you will take it in the right spirits.

Cheers,
Kaleem

If you're talking about oil filters, I've found VIC to be best. Both cost and performance go like VIC Japan>LePPon Malaysia>Guard/Qaim Pakistan. Haven't ever tried Toyota or other OEM oil filters.

The other filters such Osaka etc. are very cheap (Rs. 85/-) and don't have a wastegate (or bypass and maybe @storm is using spring loaded diaphragm for the same thing). Now filters that don't have a bypass must have very very strong filtration element (which you can't expect from dirt cheap stuff) otherwise it would soon tear out and then voila: no filtration! Its no use buying anything cheaper than Guard.

Ahsanz!
I've been using Leppon oil (and air filter as well for only little) for almost 2 years and found them a really good filter, never used VIC though and always bought it from plaza (filter market as I call it) for Rs 250 or so. I switched from guard filters obviously because of 'versions' (1-10) available in the market.

The other 'a must' property other than having a relief valve for a filter is to hold the oil in the crankcase. Our fellow members should know this since if the filter does not have the 'Non Return' capabilities due to permeability of membrane or a NR valve/flap or faulty relief valve, the oil will gravitate back to the sump (or in chamber as it is called) and in a cold start this will cause excessive wear and tear and the breakdown in the long range.

During the oil change, another check one should make is take the dirty oil in a plastic container and run a magnet under it and if they see a significant movement or a sheen on surface then oil is NOT serving the purpose and a more frequent or brand change is required.

Cheers,
Kaleem

[adeelasalat]

I use Petromin's Ultra-7, flush at 5K's.

[Storm]

Storm!
You are suggesting ZIC will flash in our climates while your comparison suggests that ZIC and Ultra7 has same flash point (more or less).
Further, if you look into your comparison, viscosity of ultra7 being 169 (assuming centistroke) is much higher (will be more at ambient temperature) thus requiring more energy and time to 'warm up' to actually cause the 'cooling effect' or reduce friction in layman's terms. It is esp. will be more important factor in a 'cold start' of vehicle. The other specs. of the oil like SG, Pour point and viscosity index (which I think you have made the other way round) is better for ZIC A+.

TBH, I will never make a comparison of two entirely different base oils, one (like yourself) I am not a fan of synthetics other its just not right, its apples versus oranges.

I hope you will take it in the right spirits.

Cheers,
Kaleem

Thanks for the feedback & indeed you are right in what you have said in every aspect. My point was that our brand of mineral oil is so closely matched to ZiCs synthetic oil that the cost difference makes our oil a no brainer. the main nreason i posted that comparrison is to show how closely our mineral oil performs to a well known synthetic just to proove to people that believing "synthetic is best" are fooling themselves. if synthetics cost the same as minerals then perhaps i'd also switch to synthetics (from brand new) but in our environment with our local engines (meaning suzukis etc) it's better off to save where we can without losing any of the main advantages of running a high grade oil.

seriously i appreciate such posts, they show people that someone who knows his lubricants is making very valid points and it gives me a chance to explain what i can to the people out there who may not be able to put such points into a coherent sentence.

I personally believe that we should question everything and never blindly trust anyone or anything. i hope that over time you bring up more such points and allow me a moment to answer any questions you may have,.. competition can only benefit the end user.

[KKNIAZI]

Thanks for your post and detailed reply. However, the point I was trying to make is if ZIC A+ will flash in PK environment then Ultra7 will also flash having the same flash point. SO I found this as a bit of a smoke screen or marketing gimmick when you are describing the grade details of ZIC.

Now here's the comparison for Petrosin 7 and ZIC Hiflow both being same base oil.

SAE ZIC Grade 20W/50 20W/50 Petrosin 20W/50
API Grade SJ /SL/ SL
S. Gravity 15/4 ℃ 0.888/ 0.885/ 0.894
Viscosity, 40 ℃ 180.5/ 155.5/ 169
Viscosity,100 ℃ 19.8/ 17.68 /19.2
Visc Index 127/ 125 /130
Flash Point,℃ 250/ 246/ 240
Pour Point,℃ -25.0/ -27.5/ -24

If you make a comparison now then you will notice that ZIC Hiflow stands better and its retail (not wholesale price) is for a 4 llitre can was Rs.1350 (about but can't remember exactly) in December' 09 in KHI.

Which one will you buy now as a consumer?

I tend to see SG, pour point and viscosity before I buy lubs, I will prefer a Korean's own technology over Arabs' (everything borrowed) technology.

Cheers,
Kaleem

[Storm]

Thanks for your post and detailed reply. However, the point I was trying to make is if ZIC A+ will flash in PK environment then Ultra7 will also flash having the same flash point. SO I found this as a bit of a smoke screen or marketing gimmick when you are describing the grade details of ZIC.

Now here's the comparison for Petrosin 7 and ZIC Hiflow both being same base oil.

SAE ZIC Grade 20W/50 20W/50 Petrosin 20W/50
API Grade SJ /SL/ SL
S. Gravity 15/4 ℃ 0.888/ 0.885/ 0.894
Viscosity, 40 ℃ 180.5/ 155.5/ 169
Viscosity,100 ℃ 19.8/ 17.68 /19.2
Visc Index 127/ 125 /130
Flash Point,℃ 250/ 246/ 240
Pour Point,℃ -25.0/ -27.5/ -24

If you make a comparison now then you will notice that ZIC Hiflow stands better and its retail (not wholesale price) is for a 4 llitre can was Rs.1350 (about but can't remember exactly) in December' 09 in KHI.

Which one will you buy now as a consumer?

I tend to see SG, pour point and viscosity before I buy lubs, I will prefer a Korean's own technology over Arabs' (everything borrowed) technology.

Cheers,
Kaleem

just curious, why such a dislike for arab technology? As for petroMin oil (petroSin makes cooking oils and ghee:) ), i never claimed it was the best oil in the world or a magic formula, what i said is that it is very well suited to our environment. Consumers are welcome to buy and use what they wish as i have never forced my product on anyone, infact i've always been an advocate of other brands as well as my own (such as Fuchs etc).

BTW just curious but how much is ZIC 20W50 API SL now that prices have gone up? and please explain what exactly CNG oil is? is there a specific oil for DOHC and Turbo cars? (see here)

As far as a "smokescreen" or "marketing gimmick" is concerned, that was unfair and i must be honest i have taken slight offence to such wording (could be due to the fact that text cannot show emotion so i'll let it slide). I'm just doing the best i can to give an impartial comparrison with the data i have, to the end users even though i represent a specific brand in this region. if there is a problem with my product or someting i've said please point it out (and feel free to be brutal) but questioning my credibility and work ethics,.. it's just not right buddy.

[KKNIAZI]

BTW just curious but how much is ZIC 20W50 API SL now that prices have gone up? and please explain what exactly CNG oil is? is there a specific oil for DOHC and Turbo cars? (see here)

As far as a "smokescreen" or "marketing gimmick" is concerned, that was highly un-called for and yes, i have taken offence to such wording, as i'm doing the best i can to give an impartial comparrison with the data i have, to the end users even though i represent a specific brand in this region.

First of all, I am extremely sorry, I did not and never will mean to hurt or offend anybody nor I will doubt your honesty at all.
As far as I know, you are, without any shadow of doubt, a person with integrity and hold you in extreme respect and that is just by visiting these pages.

To highlight my point let me rephrase my question,

1) How come a lub with flashpoint of 230 C is not suitable (as it will flash) in our climate whereas a luboil of 240 C flashpoint is?

At least this is what your post implies when comparison was made and I am sure it was unintentional.

Now coming back to current price, I don't have any idea, I am out of PK and earliest will be back in Sept for a break, our other fellows from KHI are in a better position to say. I changed the oil on brother's city in Dec. and I earlier had been using it on 2.0D (ZIC diesel) and so was my another who switched from delo gold to ZIC about five years ago.

What CNG, TURBO BLA BLA BLA means, you as a businessman and I as working in SHELL for almost 10 years having my hand in lubs to crude oil to jet fuel all know these are just BLA BLAz, ignore them. And like I said, I only look for what we call QUALITY CERTIFICATE, not what the label says.

About the Arabs, nothing I just have a THING against them to cut the long story short.

I hope I have made myself clear and do enjoy your weekend.

Cheers
Kaleem

[Storm]

First of all, I am extremely sorry, I did not and never will mean to hurt or offend anybody nor I will doubt your honesty at all.
As far as I know, you are, without any shadow of doubt, a person with integrity and hold you in extreme respect and that is just by visiting these pages.

To highlight my point let me rephrase my question,

1) How come a lub with flashpoint of 230 C is not suitable (as it will flash) in our climate whereas a luboil of 240 C flashpoint is?

At least this is what your post implies when comparison was made and I am sure it was unintentional.

Now coming back to current price, I don't have any idea, I am out of PK and earliest will be back in Sept for a break, our other fellows from KHI are in a better position to say. I changed the oil on brother's city in Dec. and I earlier had been using it on 2.0D (ZIC diesel) and so was my another who switched from delo gold to ZIC about five years ago.

What CNG, TURBO BLA BLA BLA means, you as a businessman and I as working in SHELL for almost 10 years having my hand in lubs to crude oil to jet fuel all know these are just BLA BLAz, ignore them. And like I said, I only look for what we call QUALITY CERTIFICATE, not what the label says.

About the Arabs, nothing I just have a THING against them to cut the long story short.

I hope I have made myself clear and do enjoy your weekend.

Cheers
Kaleem

now it get it! (i have a bit of a thick skull). my post about the flash point was probably a bit misleading what i meant is that (in the original post) that the flash point was higher so it was more suitable to hotter running environments. but as you clearly showed hiflow beats ultra 7 by at least 6 degrees.

As for going from delo gold to ZIC diesel,.. i've heard good things abotu zic diesel too so i think your move makes good sense (honestly havn't used it though).

As for the turbo, DOHC, CNG etc. i was always curious as to if there really was something i didn't know or if what little i have studied in this matter was true (about there being no CNG oil etc). thanks for clarifying that one for me, at least now i have confirmation from "somone in the know". Where were you in shell? here or abroad? that must have been fun as a few of my friends work in this field (both on and offshore) and they love their jobs.

I think that maybe i was being an @$$ in my last post, and i should stop being a baby. you were right in pointing what you did out. Have a great weekend and do let me know if you ever get to sample our brand oil your feedback would be highly valued (and do let me know your input on Fuchs oils as i hold them in very high regard as well)

[ahmedshaikhani]

Storm
I have turbocharged my lancer 4G13 SOHC. I have decreased its compression. I need good oil which can support at high temperatures. I have added oil cooler also to be on the safe side. Plus temperature on boost is between 78-82degree Celsius. While cruising it goes till 72degree Celsius. These temperature readings are of day time. Plus can you tell me the location where I can get the original oil. Price doesn't matter weather its ZIC, Mobil, Havoline, Shell, Petrosin or Petromin.

[Storm]

Storm
I have turbocharged my lancer 4G13 SOHC. I have decreased its compression. I need good oil which can support at high temperatures. I have added oil cooler also to be on the safe side. Plus temperature on boost is between 78-82degree Celsius. While cruising it goes till 72degree Celsius. These temperature readings are of day time. Plus can you tell me the location where I can get the original oil. Price doesn't matter weather its ZIC, Mobil, Havoline, Shell, Petrosin or Petromin.

ZIC, Mobil, Havoline, Shell, Fuchs & PetroMin all have a suitable oil for your car. the problem is how much you wish to spend and availability. obviously something liek mobil 1 would be the best (hands down) but it's very expensive and hard to find in 15W50 & "high milage" 10W40 in PK.

I can't speak for other oils, but i can assure you that our oil will do what it is supposed to BUT i cannot guarantee the life of your engine as your engine is now doing something which it is not designed to do.

Infact no oil manufacturer will guarantee that your engine will not fail with your current setup. The best i can do is say that all the above mentioned oils will do what they are supposed to do as long as you are not running too much boost for your connecting rods, engine bolts etc to handle (meaning if your engine fails none of us oil manufacturers can be held responsible).

PetroSin makes cooking oil & ghee,... both are not advisable for your car

[ahmedshaikhani]

ZIC, Mobil, Havoline, Shell, Fuchs & PetroMin all have a suitable oil for your car. the problem is how much you wish to spend and availability. obviously something liek mobil 1 would be the best (hands down) but it's very expensive and hard to find in 15W50 & "high milage" 10W40 in PK.

I can't speak for other oils, but i can assure you that our oil will do what it is supposed to BUT i cannot guarantee the life of your engine as your engine is now doing something which it is not designed to do.

Infact no oil manufacturer will guarantee that your engine will not fail with your current setup. The best i can do is say that all the above mentioned oils will do what they are supposed to do as long as you are not running too much boost for your connecting rods, engine bolts etc to handle (meaning if your engine fails none of us oil manufacturers can be held responsible).

PetroSin makes cooking oil & ghee,... both are not advisable for your car

Thanks for your kind reply. I know no oil company will take the responsibility or guarantee. I just wanted to know the best grade for my car according to the environment temperature as you are very senior and experienced in this field.