Mitsubishi Galant v6, problem. Help required

[8502]

Please send me your number

[Xulfiqar]

The module is garbage, you need to buy the updated one, this is the same idiotic module found in mazda 6, mitsi galant etc.

buy a new updated part from mitsubishi.

I used to swap these GDI galants with this same engine, easiest swap for me (I used the factory steel subframe rather than the AWD aluminium one the swaps came with). The wiring is modular in mitsi - only the step shift (tip tronic) mode required me to to wire that system separately.

The cooling fan is not a 3 spd, its actually a 5 spd unit, it will only kick to max (90% spd) when the coolant temp goes to 105C while running or when the A/C liquid line pressure spikes to 250 psi.

It will never run at 100% spd (this design feature is to save the fan from killing itself)

does the fan keep on running at high speed after engine shutdown?

[8502]

Yes it runs for like 3 seconds after shutting off engine. What do you suggest for then if the module is garbage. Also there is no capacitor as mention by one on top of the fan wire clip.

[Xulfiqar]

buy a brand new one with updated part no. - It costs USD 200/- in retail globally. All the scrapyard parts will be defective.

[Xulfiqar]

thats the fan control unit, its fins are heatsinks, the circuit gets way hotter than the air blowing from radiator.

Cleaning it with any APC or soap usually does bad to it. Its designed to handle water mist not flooding.

btw - that cap is just a noise filter - the fan will generate some noise on the wiring - the cap supresses that, these caps are all over the car, you will find two near the left shock tower too if you bought the complete wiring for this engine.

[8502]

Zulfiqar SB please send your number, I think u know my solution. I need some more details about it. You are a gallant user so you know better.

[wasf]

Harsh and offensive use of words , very poor. First thing is respect then comes your knowledge. Both these mods are very respectable and reputable persons as per my dealing with them.Never misguided me but told as much they know and supported as much they could .Our wordings can hurt someone badly this we don't realize.Everybody is a different personality some people take things light others may take it serious.PW is more like a family club so we should be careful that our relations don't hurt from our sayings.Nobody knows all ,some are good in one field and others are good in different.
I respect you for your seniority here ,you have a helping attitude along with good support and guidance to forum members but I think you should apologize for the content posted and refrain from such wordings in future. I am sure you will earn even more respect .

[Xulfiqar]

just post it here, I dont live in pk and I dont own a galant either, but I have swapped a lot of these when I lived in pk with V6s and I4 (2.0 4g63)

[8502]

Ok. Please tell me about this capacitor thing, in my car it's missing you can see pics of my module and member with the name of capset pics. Will it make any difference if I get one from Bilal Ganj. If not what's the solution. If it's the new module can you please provide me the part number so i can order it's expensive so need info beforehand. Also is it your personal experience?

[Xulfiqar]

Yes, my personal experience. - the galants I swapped will have a plate riveted to the radiator brace and the B pillar bone with a serial number on it - the plate will be a black and red one branded as ZRS (Zulfiqar Racing Systems) and a serialnumber with an encoded julian date.

The cap is a generic 0.47u item which you can substitute easily - lots available everywhere, even as a genuine part from suzuki. -Its job is to suppress AC noise in the wiring (the fan motor can cause noise as it winds down)

I'll look up the part no. for the control module. Its been updated a lot as they fail a lot.

[8502]

You mean to say the capacitor change or install clip with capacitor won't make any difference with the problem I am facing about the fan speed? It's just for noice suppression. Please tell me if need to install it or get new clip with capacitor on top from Bilal Ganj and wire it to my module.

Also what's the drawback of using direct fans. It's not good I know. But any major loss or damage it can cause. From the main connector I unplugged the middle wire and taped it that's how they work direct.

The main culprit is the module. One Electrition told me that it's the module problem but I overlooked it as whichever module I got from Bilal Ganj they worked same like old one, and they said if module is faulty it will not work at all so I put blame on ECU.

This new module u are talking about will it also have 5 speed fans as you mentioned earlier or only 2 speeds low and high. During ac on whatever the temp is will they run at full speed or will they change it accordingly.

[8502]

Also there are modules available from Bilal ganjs some are very fine and very little used. If I get new from them how to check if they change 5 speeds I mean normally every car fans run at highest possible speed with AC on. Is it different

[Xulfiqar]

the capacitor wont make any difference, the module itself is what controls the fan speed, the ECU sends a 3V PWM signal to it to variate the fan speed. The highest speed you get on direct running wont be achieved by the module as it limits the rpm to 90% of capacity so the fan doesnt burn itself out.

Almost all scrapped modules will be bad though - I have never found one that worked. Even outside pk. You can wire up a switch to it to disconnect the module so the fans run full speed once the A/C starts.

you also need to make sure the water pump is good, When I swapped one (4G63), I found that the impeller in the pump was cracked, the impeller would loosen on the shaft as the coolant warmed up - resulting in a hot engine.

test the fan motors first with an ammeter, do this on a full charged battery, you should not be seeing more than 11 amps of draw at full speed. If you do see more amp draw - you will kill even a new fan module. The remedy is to replace the fan motors with new ones along with a new module.

The fans should switch off when the key is switched off, if they remain working for any amount of time including 5 seconds, the module is bad.

[8502]

If the water pump impeller is bad it would heat up fan speed won't effect on it, but it doesn't heat up when fans are direct. The wire up swtich for AC I don't want to install as it would need writing modification. The fan motors are running fine when direct no sound and no speed issues. Also they don't swtich off for like 3 - 5 seconds when engine is shut down.

[capsat]

well if it helps

am sorry

i did not mean any offence, to any individual .

[capsat]

the one Steel grey we had - developed the same shitty issue Mitsu suggested replace whole fan assy while fan control ecu was not sold as part which was at that time Rs.32000

i couldn't gulp it down so took it myself finally performed the surgery those were not the phone cam days but the issue was a bubbled capacitor which costed 300 from ac scrap-shop. spliced soldered using heat shrink tube problem solved in under Rs. 500.

the 1985 white one is plain straight relay drives and no cooling or fan issues

[xenerking]

if water pump function is compromised, means its not operating at 100%, then it can be responsible for heat up at stand still. i.e. if it is supposed to rotate at 100 RPM but due to loose grip on shaft only churning out 60 RPM, then water flow is slow and heat dissipation is also low.

when vehicle is moving, already air is pushed thru radiator and compensate for the compromised water pump.

better to it a thought as well beside looking for good fan control module.

[8502]

How should I check water pump. Asked mechanic and he said its fine.

[xenerking]

IMO, you can dismantle it, observe the fins, also look or nay cracks or loose grip on the shaft as identified by Xulfiqar bhai.

doing this will strike an item out of your possible fault list. and i think this operation wont cost alot,

[8502]

Now I am having 2 areas to look water pump and module. Water pump was not dismantled but because of the pressure in the radiator the mechanic said it's not water pump. Its 100k driven and totally genuine I don't think water pump is bad.