My new Ride - LC Prado KZJ78 1995

[sufian_noshad]

Please elaborate a little further. My OD is always in ON position, means the O/D Off Light is always off.

it should not be always off according to my info
overdrive is like a 5th or 6th gear so once your vehicle gets up to cruising speed which is lets say 70km/hr you should then press the od button and the light showing od off should go away and you would see the revs dropping by 800-1000rpm at tge same speed. and like wise when you slow down below 70 km/hr switch the button to off and the light would show up as od off. if you are leaving it on all the times i am afraid you are damaging your transfer box. i hope it makes sense. regards

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[dogarz]

The gear ratio of a Toyota Land cruiser Prado are not the same as SURF.....So you will see the 1KZ staying in a very comfortable rev band in a SURF on 120 Km/H as compared to a Parado...so no problem with that at all

Though the Oil pressure is not where it should be at 3000 rpm

Position of oil pressure and ampere meter needles was also part of my query. Thanks for noticing. Also please advise what should be the correct position at this rpm. Thanks

[sufian_noshad]

your speedo can be giving total false information if the tyre size is anything else apart from the factory specs. can i ask what size tyre you are using i know they are from 80 series but are they the right spec

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[dogarz]

The installed tyre size is 285/70/16 instead of the factory size of 265/65/15. I will check the speed with a GPS speedometer.

your speedo can be giving total false information if the tyre size is anything else apart from the factory specs. can i ask what size tyre you are using i know they are from 80 series but are they the right spec

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[hsumbal1]

Position of oil pressure and ampere meter needles was also part of my query. Thanks for noticing. Also please advise what should be the correct position at this rpm. Thanks

The Volt meter is just fine, that is around 12 Volts...but the Oil pressure needle should be around the third 3/4 (three quarter mark)

Some where here..

[dogarz]

The Volt meter is just fine, that is around 12 Volts...but the Oil pressure needle should be around the third 3/4 (three quarter mark)

Some where here..

That's something alarming. What can be the reason? Faulty oil pump? Oil level is fine.

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[sufian_noshad]

The installed tyre size is 285/70/16 instead of the factory size of 265/65/15. I will check the speed with a GPS speedometer.

speed difference may be
plus it effects fuel econony as well

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[saboor73]

The installed tyre size is 285/70/16 instead of the factory size of 265/65/15. I will check the speed with a GPS speedometer.

[dogarz]

I'll now rely more on the GPS speedometer. I knew there would be some difference but not this much.

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[hsumbal1]

That's something alarming. What can be the reason? Faulty oil pump? Oil level is fine.

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More often than not it is due to the faulty Oil Pressure gauge...but you need to get it checked..

[dogarz]

A quick question from 4X4 experts:

My rig came fitted with manual locking hubs instead of the oem electrically controlled ones. Now, when in "Lock" position, I jacked up the front tyres and turned one wheel. The other one did not turn in any direction. There is a "H4" button and a "HUB LOCK" button. the HUB LOCK button has obviously become redundant. When I press the H4 button, a green 4x4 sign lights up in the cluster. I am not expert enough to tell whether the front wheels engage or not in the High Range position. However when I put the transfer lever in LOW RANGE position, I feel the front wheels to engage properly and do their stuff. I have pulled my rig out of difficult situations using the H4 button and then shifting the transfer lever to Low Range.

My question is, is it advisable to permanently keep the Manual Hubs in "Lock" position? In my 1st Gen Pajero, I had manual hubs and they had to be LOCKED before engaging 4x4. I feel a slight advantage as the hubs don't actually lock unless H4 is pressed. So I can enjoy the freedom of engaging the 4x4 from inside the cabin only and possibly do not have the disadvantage of running it with the Hubs in Lock position, hoping that they actually lock when we press H4. As evident from my exercise of jacking up the front and rotating tyres.

Cheers!!!

[tintin1]

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.

[dogarz]

I asked a friend

how did you bought from Torkhan ?
i am also looking some special parts of my classic car and was planning to visit Quetta.
But if someone can deliver it here, then what can more more convenient than it ?

[tintin1]

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.

[tintin1]

This post was flagged by the community and is temporarily hidden.

[dogarz]

I seek guidance on this...

A quick question from 4X4 experts:

My rig came fitted with manual locking hubs instead of the oem electrically controlled ones. Now, when in "Lock" position, I jacked up the front tyres and turned one wheel. The other one did not turn in any direction. There is a "H4" button and a "HUB LOCK" button. the HUB LOCK button has obviously become redundant. When I press the H4 button, a green 4x4 sign lights up in the cluster. I am not expert enough to tell whether the front wheels engage or not in the High Range position. However when I put the transfer lever in LOW RANGE position, I feel the front wheels to engage properly and do their stuff. I have pulled my rig out of difficult situations using the H4 button and then shifting the transfer lever to Low Range.

My question is, is it advisable to permanently keep the Manual Hubs in "Lock" position? In my 1st Gen Pajero, I had manual hubs and they had to be LOCKED before engaging 4x4. I feel a slight advantage as the hubs don't actually lock unless H4 is pressed. So I can enjoy the freedom of engaging the 4x4 from inside the cabin only and possibly do not have the disadvantage of running it with the Hubs in Lock position, hoping that they actually lock when we press H4. As evident from my exercise of jacking up the front and rotating tyres.

Cheers!!!

[nn]

A quick question from 4X4 experts:

My rig came fitted with manual locking hubs instead of the oem electrically controlled ones. Now, when in "Lock" position, I jacked up the front tyres and turned one wheel. The other one did not turn in any direction. There is a "H4" button and a "HUB LOCK" button. the HUB LOCK button has obviously become redundant. When I press the H4 button, a green 4x4 sign lights up in the cluster. I am not expert enough to tell whether the front wheels engage or not in the High Range position. However when I put the transfer lever in LOW RANGE position, I feel the front wheels to engage properly and do their stuff. I have pulled my rig out of difficult situations using the H4 button and then shifting the transfer lever to Low Range.

My question is, is it advisable to permanently keep the Manual Hubs in "Lock" position? In my 1st Gen Pajero, I had manual hubs and they had to be LOCKED before engaging 4x4. I feel a slight advantage as the hubs don't actually lock unless H4 is pressed. So I can enjoy the freedom of engaging the 4x4 from inside the cabin only and possibly do not have the disadvantage of running it with the Hubs in Lock position, hoping that they actually lock when we press H4. As evident from my exercise of jacking up the front and rotating tyres.

Cheers!!!

Simplified answers to your questions are.....

The easiest way to check if your 4x4 is working in H4 is taking it to any workshop with lift, raise the vehicle, in H4 all 4 wheels should rotate equally.

Leaving the wheel hub locked minimally increases your fuel consumption, and also very slightly more wear n tear (because you are turning the front drive shaft all the time) but it does no damage. Leaving the wheels hub lock unlocked or in free position means, your front wheels are not connected to diff, so even with H4 or L4 activated even though your transfer case is providing power to front drive shaft and to front diff, but your wheels are not connected, so you won't have a working 4X4.

For normal driving the overdrive button should be left ON.

I may be wrong, but the tyre sizes mentioned in your post do not appear usual sizes. Could be a typo. Common size for Prado is 265/70R15,. And also the replacement size mentioned is probably 285/75R16 (285/70R16 is very uncommon)

[dogarz]

Simplified answers to your questions are.....

The easiest way to check if your 4x4 is working in H4 is taking it to any workshop with lift, raise the vehicle, in H4 all 4 wheels should rotate equally.

Leaving the wheel hub locked minimally increases your fuel consumption, and also very slightly more wear n tear (because you are turning the front drive shaft all the time) but it does no damage. Leaving the wheels hub lock unlocked or in free position means, your front wheels are not connected to diff, so even with H4 or L4 activated even though your transfer case is providing power to front drive shaft and to front diff, but your wheels are not connected, so you won't have a working 4X4.

For normal driving the overdrive button should be left ON.

I may be wrong, but the tyre sizes mentioned in your post do not appear usual sizes. Could be a typo. Common size for Prado is 265/70R15,. And also the replacement size mentioned is probably 285/75R16 (285/70R16 is very uncommon)

Thank you for your valuable input Sir, I know your opinion has a lot of weight as it comes from direct first hand experience.

I am slightly aware that driving with hubs locked does put extra burden as it makes the differential to move even though not connected to the drive shaft and subsequently it adds to fuel consumption.

I had the idea that if hubs are locked, and front wheels jacked up, if one tyre is rotated, the other rotates in the opposite direction. Since this is not happening in my case, I am under the assumption that in my vehicle, the hubs don't engage the front differential unless H4 is pressed, even in locked position. Can this be true mechanically?

I will re-check tyre size tomorrow.

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[nn]

Thank you for your valuable input Sir, I know your opinion has a lot of weight as it comes from direct first hand experience.

I am slightly aware that driving with hubs locked does put extra burden as it makes the differential to move even though not connected to the drive shaft and subsequently it adds to fuel consumption.

I had the idea that if hubs are locked, and front wheels jacked up, if one tyre is rotated, the other rotates in the opposite direction. Since this is not happening in my case, I am under the assumption that in my vehicle, the hubs don't engage the front differential unless H4 is pressed, even in locked position. Can this be true mechanically?

I will re-check tyre size tomorrow.

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Yes you are right, normally in open differential the opposite wheel rotates in opposite direction. They rotate in same direction if differential is locked or there is LSD.

One thing you have to confirm is that that your wheel hub locks are working properly, i.e they are locking with axle shaft properly, as over the years I have seen plenty not to work as they should for various reasons!

[dogarz]

Yes you are right, normally in open differential the opposite wheel rotates in opposite direction. They rotate in same direction if differential is locked or there is LSD.

One thing you have to confirm is that that your wheel hub locks are working properly, i.e they are locking with axle shaft properly, as over the years I have seen plenty not to work as they should for various reasons!

They work perfectly while in low range. I think it is the role of H4 button which decides.

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