Dump osaka. Go for minimum Zic premixed (order online from zicoil.pk). There are other coolants out there but they're expensive and get wasted if you don't have a leaktight, mechanically-reliable cooling system.
- Get all flushed.
- Make sure all is mechanically sound (no leaks; pipes not blocked including the big metal pipe that runs down the side/back; water pump should circulate well - if you have been using plain water or 'green' coolant then change pump once and get everything done right).
- Then drain all existing from both block as well as radiator.
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Fit thermostat valve. Without this valve your cooling system has a 'short', much like an electrical short-circuit...coolant goes around the engine without even going through the radiator.
- Then add new Zic to both block and radiator.
- Make sure fan is on auto.
As for your AC system, I'm dead sure the roadside mechs didn't do the procedure well. They usually fill the system with air to pressure test (kills the dryer), then don't vacuum the system correctly (kills system efficiency) and then overfill the system - sometimes with not-pure-freon (final nail in the coffin). Only way to judge would be to have the see low+high side pressure readings (with ambient temperature reading+AC vent air temperature readings) under certain conditions such as here and here and here. An undercharged/overcharged system puts a lot of unnecessary load on system.
ALSO, going for a used condenser is like buying used underwear (ewww!). I hope you didn't get a used condenser. Small tubes become partially blocked resulting in increased load. I'd say put the cooling system in shape, then mess with the other stuff.
Why using R16? Is this specific system designed for R16?
"Kill me please" - said the engine.